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After running across the Brighter Brights, Whiter Whites thread on here for the headlight relay conversion, I decided to do some more reading and started on a headlight harness for my 89 IDI. heres a link to the one I'm basing mine off of Headlight Relay Conversion!!! - Ford Truck Fanatics
Heres what I'm doing
draws power off drivers side battery through ring terminal.
12 AWG wire In factory green, red, black colors
Relays and sockets off amazon
triggers relays through 18 gauge wire from old headlight bulb
using ford headlight pigtails with the 12 gauge wire soldered to them ( id recommend 14 gauge, kind of a snug fit in the plugs.)
fusing both high and low beam circuits separately with weatherproof ATC fuse holders.
Crimping/ and or soldering connections
wrapping every connection possible with heatshrink
dielectric grease on exposed connections/ relay sockets.
and My Favorite, tons of 3/8 in Wire loom
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Good deal, I'm fixin' to make my own harness here in a bit too. Just have to move my single relay I added to a mounting rail I plan on making so I can have multiple relays in one spot. Two for headlights, one for air compressor, and probably another one or two for off-road lighting when I find a decent set of 100W lights.
+1 for soldering/heatshrinking... way to do it right. I plan on using sealed relays and connectors also.
the sockets are good. I haven't finished it yet, so idk on the relays, you can get bosch/tyco ones (not sure who manufactures them now) for around 16 bucks for two shipped from rock auto.
I plan on mounting the relays on the factory bracket on the drivers side, I was gonna mount them on the passenger side near the radiator support, but changed my mind since they would be hard to get to and I now have to extend a few wires.
I mounted my relays between the starter solenoid and the jack on the passenger fender. +12v is close and convenient on the hot side of the solenoid (We gas guys don't have the driver side batteries.)
I get my female sockets at NAPA, that's a common item. The male sockets, though, are harder to find. Ebay is where I get those:
I mounted my relays between the starter solenoid and the jack on the passenger fender. +12v is close and convenient on the hot side of the solenoid (We gas guys don't have the driver side batteries.)
I get my female sockets at NAPA, that's a common item. The male sockets, though, are harder to find. Ebay is where I get those:
The only reason I didn't use the aftermarket plugs and adapters is because they are bright blue, I like stuff to look semi-oem or look like it belongs, and the pigtails use 18 or 16 gauge wire, and I went out of the way to use 12. If something happens to these I may be getting some high temp ones with the ceramic piece around the terminals for dissipating heat, and the fact the male connector is 3 crimp butt terminals, an old blown bulb, some 18 gauge wire and black rtv is about free. seems fairly secure and solid.
And I was going to do like that, then I realized I'd be putting more amperage draw through the old cables, v.s. right off the battery terminal bolt. already had it measured and ready to go on, then changed my mind.
I'm just about finished with the harness, just need to pick up some more wire loom and make a few connections.
just thought I'd let y'all now about the way I crimp connections, I don't use a cheap stamped wire stripper/crimper combination tool, but a set of heavy cast pliers, like these.
The advantage to these, is they allow one to make much stronger crimp connections. heres a pic.
got some loom, heres the harness, have to shorten the wires going from the fuseholder to the battery, and put it in. Tested it last night and it works, can't tell much difference though with the engine off. got to looking, theres a harness on my IDI that is routed on the driverside underneath the battery tray and coolant overflow, seems like a good place to run the harness, out of sight, out of the way.
hate to bring back an old thread, but the harness is in, and has greatly improved the visibility when driving at night. low beams are brighter and wider, not bright enough to cause people to flash you however, high beams really improved more so then the low beams, much longer brighter beam. The color has gone from a yellowish color to a brilliant white, not in the 6k HID spectrum, but probably more along the lines of 3800- 4k. In all honesty, I am completely satisfied with the headlight out put on the truck.
hate to bring back an old thread, but the harness is in, and has greatly improved the visibility when driving at night. low beams are brighter and wider, not bright enough to cause people to flash you however, high beams really improved more so then the low beams, much longer brighter beam. The color has gone from a yellowish color to a brilliant white, not in the 6k HID spectrum, but probably more along the lines of 3800- 4k. In all honesty, I am completely satisfied with the headlight out put on the truck.
Wow, good job! Was wondering, in earlier post, you were talking about the high-temp sockets with a ceramic piece. Where can you get that? I need to upgrade all of my bulb sockets on my 96, on the whole truck.
Wow, good job! Was wondering, in earlier post, you were talking about the high-temp sockets with a ceramic piece. Where can you get that? I need to upgrade all of my bulb sockets on my 96, on the whole truck.
If your going with higher watt headlight bulbs, they make high temp ceramic plugs, you can get them off ebay, or through here.
No need to upgrade any other bulb plugs, unless they are damaged, in which case replace them. turn signals, taillights, marker lights do not put off enough heat to warrant it.
No need to upgrade any other bulb plugs, unless they are damaged, in which case replace them. turn signals, taillights, marker lights do not put off enough heat to warrant it.
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