2010 E150 Bad Timing Chain ??
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2010 E150 Bad Timing Chain ??
I recently purchased a 2010 E150 with the 5.4L engine 160k miles. I purchased it not running. After some diagnostics I came to the conclusion that there is no compression. I was told that the timing tensioner go on these and the chain jumps, which would make sense why no compression.
My question is am I better off getting the kit and replacing chain tensioner etc. or replacing the entire engine with a used one?
Does the engine have to come out to do the timing chain kit ?
and If I do an engine swap what year will work and does it have to be an E series van engine ?
TIA
My question is am I better off getting the kit and replacing chain tensioner etc. or replacing the entire engine with a used one?
Does the engine have to come out to do the timing chain kit ?
and If I do an engine swap what year will work and does it have to be an E series van engine ?
TIA
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I would think if the timing chains have jumped you'd still have some compression. I also believe the 5.4 is an interference motor so if it has indeed jumped time there might be bent valves or piston damage.
The timing chains can be serviced in-frame but that might require (or be desirable) to remove the radiator and grill, perhaps the entire core support---that would be how much a contortionist you are----or want to be!
A 5.4 from 2010 not from an E-Series might well be the 3 valve version----those never made their way into the E-Series, big compatibility issues there. Trying to simply drop another complete engine not from the same year and series has issues relating to the engine wiring harnesses.
I'd post this in the Modular Motors V8 forum----tons of engine-specific info and help there.
Hope some of this helps.
The timing chains can be serviced in-frame but that might require (or be desirable) to remove the radiator and grill, perhaps the entire core support---that would be how much a contortionist you are----or want to be!
A 5.4 from 2010 not from an E-Series might well be the 3 valve version----those never made their way into the E-Series, big compatibility issues there. Trying to simply drop another complete engine not from the same year and series has issues relating to the engine wiring harnesses.
I'd post this in the Modular Motors V8 forum----tons of engine-specific info and help there.
Hope some of this helps.
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Thank you, One of my other questions was 2 or 3 valve motor. As for the compression, I only pulled the plug from cyl. 1 or 5 not sure it was the first one on Drivers side front. I could not feel anything coming out of spark plug hole while cranking it over.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Driver's side front plug would be #5 on the V8.
Sounds like you'll need to at least pull the valve covers and see what's what---driver's side should remove fairly easily, not many parts to remove firstI'd pull the fuel pump fuse or relay myself.
Disable or pull the fuel pump relay or fuse----make sure it doesn't start and run unexpectedly.
Sounds like you'll need to at least pull the valve covers and see what's what---driver's side should remove fairly easily, not many parts to remove firstI'd pull the fuel pump fuse or relay myself.
Disable or pull the fuel pump relay or fuse----make sure it doesn't start and run unexpectedly.
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doman24
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 13, 2007 07:33 PM
