Also...can you confirm this is the right numbering for my 98 5.4L Expy 4x4

Fire wall

8 4
7 3
6 2
5 1

Radiator

 

I think it the opposite. 1-4 on the left & 5-8 on the right. But not 100% sure.

 

Not in those words, but if you disconnected the battery when you were working on it, then PCM's memory was wiped out. It takes a while for all the readiness tests to complete and until they do the PCM's programming will be incomplete.

 

Firewall
--4--8--
--3--7--
--2--6--
--1--5--
Radiator

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess the numbering diagram I found online was not for my specific application. Looks like I changed out 5 and 6. I'll post pics of my plugs. One was awlful...looked like something was growing off te electrobe.

 

Here is a couple pics of the plug I pulled from cylinder #5 (previously mislabeled as cylinder #1) - 1st plug on driverside closest to radiator.

 

Well got #4 changed out and all is well.

I went to the parts store and got a GearWrench spark plug socket that was mated to a 4" extension. The socket had a swivel base and was magnetic so this helped me not loose the socket in the spark plug well. I used that along with a universal joint and another 4" extension and was able to remove and reinstall fairly painlessly. I actually used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 3/8 adapter for install so I could be right up and down on the plug...didn't wanna snug it up off to the side...wanted a good straight feel for what I was tightening down.

As far as the hoses, I wash shifting them all kinds of way to make room. Even unplugged the coil and injector next to #4 and spun the injector sideways for clearance.

Not a real bad job, just time consuming. All in all, I replaced 3 COPs and plugs and the Expy is running like a raped ape!

Many thanks to all!!!!!

 

He probably pulled the P1000 DTC, which just mean the PCM hasn't had all the right condictions in order to run all the monitors.
That might also be why the SG2 says "Not Ready".

 

Any idea on how I can get those conditions satisfied. I went cruising for 10 mins at different speeds and in stop and go traffic. Do I need to hit the interstate? : )

 

Drive it normally (combined city and highway) for a few days.

if you're in a hurry, you an usually force the monitors to run by executing a Ford OBDII drive cycle. Google it.

 

Think I found it.......Im going to go for a spin later...hour round trip so Ill see if I can accomplish.

 

I would go fuel filter, then plugs, then coils, injectors.

 

I had a similar problem with my 01 expedition, had a miss that drove me crazy. Wasn't bad at first and got worse. I found a vacuum leak, I found that made the problem better but not fixed. Replace fuel filter, still there, replaced the plugs, still no change. Then I decided to buy coil packs, auto parts stores were super high, bought all 8 on eBay for $65. Problem solved I tested all the coil packs and all looked good on an ohm meter.

 

I had problems with my 2006 E350 5.4 l. It started dieing while driving! No reason 50,60,70 mph everything shut down, after rolling to a stop it gave the check engine light and the wrench. I could then Start the engine if nothing happened this repeated every 20 miles or so seeming to mainly chose inconvenient spots like uphill. CHECKED CODE AFTER 6 SHUTDOWNS. P0460 fuel level P061B Internal Control module It had no symptoms driving in town. Started up and idled flawlessly 2x when it shut down, it wouldn't start, but pumping the gas peddle 2x. And it started flawlessly Changed fuel pump, and fuel filter 30 miles later, same critical engine failure Got it finally to the repair shop and a bright young guy did a code check 1) all 8 injectors were giving error codes 2) Forced engine shutdown (Because of the cause of the problem. Other people may not have these exact symptoms but other weird codes, something else, that defies logic.) So it's ford's fault! They placed the wiring loom against a fiberglass wrapped ERG tube, INCLUDING the aluminum tape wraping.(I Think its an ERG tube) Remember those washboard roads/bumps, the constant rubbing finally ate through the wire bundled insulation and the insulation around those important wires. So depending on which wires are touching, the code will change. So you can't believe any of the codes as they may change as mine did. The worn spot CAN NOT be observed without the loom out of position and looking at the bottom edge (drivers side) Here is a picture of the shorting cable. It's removed so you can see it. If you looked at it before it was removed, you could not see anything as it was facing down. I hope this saves people thousands of dollars of analysis, and repair attempts.

 

How old are the plugs ?