I posted this in a different part of the fprums, but cant find it any where, so I wanted to post it in here

I recently traded a built Cobra for this 03 6.0L and Im starting to see multiple issues, maybe I could get some tech help from some folks on here.

This is my first diesel and I notice when its cold (always plugged in) and I start it, it runs pretty rough for the first 5-10 mins. Today it was 35* at is coldest. While driving down the road after letting it idle for 10-15 mins it runs terrible once it hits OD. It will really miss ans shutter bad. I have to either give it more gas or kick the tow/haul on.

The previous owner (not a mech what-so-ever) told me he had the injectors and glow plugs replaced 6-7 months ago, but the injectors were used. He also told me that the front brakes and front wheel bearings were replaced at the same time, but the front brakes are warped all to hell and I think the front manual locking hubs are frozen in lock, and I hear a humming up front at 55-60mph (I think thats the bearings)

I put a scanner on it, even though there is no CEL

I found cylinder 3 and 7 have a contribution/balance code
glow plug's 4 and 6 curcuit code
and EGR range and performance and sensor A curcuit code.

I am assuming this truck is factory as far as being "bulletproofed" and I am assuming it still has the EGR. I do not think it is chipped. Factory exhaust as well


HERES WHAT IVE DONE:

I changed the fuel filters on new years day. The filters I pulled off were black as soot and were no name knock off lookin filters. I filled the new motorcraft filters with lucas fuel cleaner to help with air removal. I have run a lot of power serive and lucas fuel treatment through 4 tanks of gas trying to help clean the system out as I am assuming the jackas$ before me just abused this thing.

I have a new 5 gal bucket of rotella and a new motorcraft filter, but havent changed the oil yet.

The truck has 338,000 miles, so I am not angry at the truck, Im angry that the guy lied to me about the stuff.

Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated! I am a police officer so even though I would love to do so, shoving my fist through his face is not an option.

 

Did you pull the EGR valve and clean it? Did you check the FICM? These are what I would look into first thing, along with getting the maintenance caught up.
Also read this a bit!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

 

wow, a lot of good info there, will have to do some reading. I have not cleaned anything. I will clean that EGR when I get home.

Also I was thumbing through some of the readin on that link and saw there was a post "breaking the myth, diesels cant idle for long" I think this may be a contributing factor here. The other night at the Police Dept I keep it idling for like 3 hours because our cruisers were no good in the snow and if we needed to get somewhere fast we were just going to jump into my truck. The night before that it was a wind chill of -44 here in mid Ohio and it was basically running all day, up to 4-6 hours at a pop.

I changed the air filter, that was teribbly dirty on the 5th and since the air and fuel filters, it has run like a champ...until yesterday basically

 

When diesel's Idle, they lose temperature, than they don't burn the fuel efficiently, this causes wet stacking, and is virtually washing the lubrication off the cylinder wall's. This also contributes to plugging the Emission stuff the 2003-current trucks use. If fuel isn't burning correctly it make's a really thick soot. Now that winter is here, I too let my truck idle more than I should, I know when I clean my EGR valve, it will have an almost "Shiny" soot on it. (Kinda like coal that skinned over in the fire.)
If You are gonna Idle, You really need to hook a switch to it, so you can manually idle it high.

 

I had noticed last week that after about 30-45 seconds after I start the motor would idle around 1k, which i read is normal while its cold... here recently I have noticed that it will not idle high anymore after I start it.

I will clean the egr and go from there. I will report my findings later today, thanks for the quick reply and info... that link was awesome I printed everything and all the different links out and started a binder for garage ref.

 

Also I read that during fuel filter change, there is a water/fuel seperator that has a drain on it? I did not remove any drain plug.... I saw a pic of one on the side closest to the transmission, I dont know if that would make a difference but I will go a drain it, see whatI find.

 

Change the oil (hopefully it is a 5W40 or 10W30 and not a 15W40 that you have), and I would add some Archoil 9100 to the oil just because injector stiction can happen when oil changes are not done at proper intervals.

Post up a picture of what the EGR valve looked like before cleaning.

 

The truck should high idle, at your temps, as long as the truck is not at operating temp's.
The water separator should be checked regularly. Be careful you don't strip the allen head. There is an upgraded plug for it, that allow's the use of your finger's/plier's (If your finger's can't get ahold of it).
Be prepared to smell like diesel!

 

You also need to get something to monitor the vitals of the truck. The dash gauges are really nothing but idiot lights with needles. Oil pressure shows "normal" when the pressure reaches 7.5 psi. Coolant temp is basically cold/normal/hot and trans temp is the same. Scangauge II (not a good code reader) and Edge Insight are OBDII plug in devices that are great. Dash Boss and Torque Pro are smart phone apps that are great too. Fuel Pressure will require a sending unit and gauge to monitor since the PCM can't read it.

 

I do have 15w-40 I think I can still take it back and exchange

I plan of the cleaning and draing once I leave here (still at work)

The temps for the last 2 days have been around 35*f as a high, with freezing temps over night.

I have a buddy that is wanting to sell me a EDGE dash kit

 

Edge Insight is OK but an edge tuner is NOT something you want, at least for anything other than gauges.

 

I typically use synthetic in everything I own, ex. I used nothing but Royal Purple in the Cobra, I am concerned with an engine this high in miles changing to a synthetic... how you you fell about changing from conventional to syn?

 

Ok I will verify what it is that he has.

 

What are your concern's? Doesn't it all do the same thing?

 

concerns about the edge?