2003 6.0L problems
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
No, Conventional, Vrs, Synthetic oil? I never realized that synthetic oil would just randomly cause issue's in an engine because it has high mileage.
I do know that there are some engines (The old rotary engines in the mazda RX7) that synthetic oil's were not recommended for. I believe that if all the rating's are met, it will be fine, and if it isn't, you already had issue's!
I do know that there are some engines (The old rotary engines in the mazda RX7) that synthetic oil's were not recommended for. I believe that if all the rating's are met, it will be fine, and if it isn't, you already had issue's!
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
My only concern with the edge is cost really. I assume the edge tuner with be more than the insight. I understand it would be more efficient to by the tuner, but I dont plan on loading any tunes atleast not anytime soon. If im going to be dropping money on other parts I will need to be smart about other areas
As far as oil, engines just have different tolerances... kind of like transmissions I guess, If you havent had it "flushed" the correct way by 200,000, dont touch it all all type thing
As far as oil, engines just have different tolerances... kind of like transmissions I guess, If you havent had it "flushed" the correct way by 200,000, dont touch it all all type thing
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,452
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From: Nor Cal
Your not understanding!!! Most tuners tear the crap out of these things and only certain ones play nice with the 6.0. Save your money and do your research before buying a tuner.Most people go with SCT. If someone wants to sell you a used tuner off a 6.0 it's because it trashed their truck and they want their money back from you. Like stated above you can use the "GAUGES" part but don't run the TUNE.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
I'm just now getting around to cleaning stuff. I idled the truck a little longer this morning after I got off work to let it warm up, ran like a dream. Definitely does not like operating cold
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I just changed the oil. Went with to tells T6 5w-40 synthetic, and a motorcraft filter. I ran out of time before I could take the egr out and clean it. I also tried to drain the water from the lower fuel rail, but it would budge and I didn't want to strip it out. I'm going to put some on blaster on it and let it sit.
I went out and drove it around. Ran smooth after about 15 min of idle, drove fine until OD gear, then started st-st-stuttering Stanley. Went and washed it, continued to drive for a half hour... Seems to be running a lot better. The oil I took out was pretty rough. Only got about 10quarts out of it too. I also noticed my pitman arm is pretty terrible at both ends. I'm replacing that tomorrow.
I went out and drove it around. Ran smooth after about 15 min of idle, drove fine until OD gear, then started st-st-stuttering Stanley. Went and washed it, continued to drive for a half hour... Seems to be running a lot better. The oil I took out was pretty rough. Only got about 10quarts out of it too. I also noticed my pitman arm is pretty terrible at both ends. I'm replacing that tomorrow.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
You are on the right track IMO. I would seriously consider getting a dosage of Archoil 9100 for the oil. I am not generally a big fan of oil additives, but MANY 6.0L people have been helped with it (and Rev-X).
There is an aftermarket fuel filter water-drain plug. Well worth the money! I will post a link in a minute (if someone doesn't beat me to it).
There is an aftermarket fuel filter water-drain plug. Well worth the money! I will post a link in a minute (if someone doesn't beat me to it).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
Also - if the truck maintenance has been neglected somewhat, then it is a SURE BET that the tranny fluid and the external filter need to be changed (the proper interval for this is 30k miles). Use only Mercon SP or Mercon LV.
I would also be planning a brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush soon.
I would also be planning a brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush soon.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I just changed the oil. Went with to tells T6 5w-40 synthetic, and a motorcraft filter. I ran out of time before I could take the egr out and clean it. I also tried to drain the water from the lower fuel rail, but it would budge and I didn't want to strip it out. I'm going to put some on blaster on it and let it sit.
I went out and drove it around. Ran smooth after about 15 min of idle, drove fine until OD gear, then started st-st-stuttering Stanley. Went and washed it, continued to drive for a half hour... Seems to be running a lot better. The oil I took out was pretty rough. Only got about 10quarts out of it too. I also noticed my pitman arm is pretty terrible at both ends. I'm replacing that tomorrow.
I went out and drove it around. Ran smooth after about 15 min of idle, drove fine until OD gear, then started st-st-stuttering Stanley. Went and washed it, continued to drive for a half hour... Seems to be running a lot better. The oil I took out was pretty rough. Only got about 10quarts out of it too. I also noticed my pitman arm is pretty terrible at both ends. I'm replacing that tomorrow.
Did anyone mention the 6.0 tech folder at the beginning of this forum and Bismic's spread sheets that contain a TON of information? Shoot him your email address and he'll be glad to send them to you.