2003 6.0L problems

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Jan 13, 2014 | 02:07 PM

#46

npccpartsman

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From: Stuttgart, Ar

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robby Nash

bismic were does this plug go?

It's the water drain plug that goes in the fuel pump. The factory originally came out with an allen head plug and were prone to rust, corrosion, and getting stuck.

Jan 13, 2014 | 04:01 PM

#47

Robby Nash

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Ok I see, mine seems to work ok, but good to know.

Jan 14, 2014 | 08:34 AM

#48

USMC53CHIEF

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Just had the batteries tested, both were rated at "Marginal"

I am going to go back and test the alternate one more time, as I don't think he did it correctly.

Jan 14, 2014 | 12:11 PM

#49

USMC53CHIEF

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Took the batteries out and put them on a 2 amp trickle charge for 24hrs. I'd like to test them after that to get a better idea of the health.

Also took the EGR out. I can't post pics yet by if someone would text me I can text the pics to them and they can post the pics up. I think my egr has been replaced, as I can't find a ford symbol or p/n at all.
4196894314 if you wanna post pics up here.

Jan 14, 2014 | 12:36 PM

#50

USMC53CHIEF

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I there a way, without takin the intake off to clean out the crap inside of where the EGR plugs into? Maybe sea foam?

Jan 16, 2014 | 07:30 PM

#51

USMC53CHIEF

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I am having a hell of a time getting the tie rod off. The tie rod from the pitman arm connecting to the passenger side tie rod. Advance has the long piece for $141 and the short rod for $80 or so. I checked on summitracing.com and they have the long pice same brand (moog) for $81.

I wouldnt be surprised if this was still the factory tie rod setup, crazy wedged into the pitman arm. I had to cut the ball and thread piece of the actual rod and cut it down flush to the pitman arm. Then I had to drill it out of the pitman arm.... PITA

I used an entire bottle of PB Blaster over two days and have been heating the pitman arm um to break it free.

Jan 18, 2014 | 11:33 PM

#52

USMC53CHIEF

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Batteries tested bad even after the trickle charge, so I got brand new ones from Interstate. About an hours worth of run time after the install the battery light flickered for a second then went out. I tested the alternator, it was fine.

I installed the tie rods, steering is much tighter now, and no clanking when I turn.

The truck still misses terrible in OD at normal driving speeds. I am going to test the FICM once I get a chance.

If my FICM is sending low voltage to my injectors, causing the miss, will I need the replace the injectors as well after I get the FICM fixed?

Jan 19, 2014 | 05:41 AM

#53

npccpartsman

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From: Stuttgart, Ar

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMC53CHIEF

The FICM low voltage won't necessarily kill your injectors, but it might. I would test and/or repair the FICM as necessary then worry about the injectors. Sometimes having the FICM reprogrammed with one of the newer strategies will help with injector stiction dramatically.

Check all your cables, especially the grounds where they attach to the block. A flashing battery light means your alternator is probably not working up to capacity or it's failing. The stock alternator is marginal at best.