I have 1988 F150 4x4 302 automatic 118,xxx. Bought about a month ago had been on a farm most of its life. Not going over 45mph much either. Guy said it had set at some point but nothing in the last bit. Ran like the cat was stopped up. I cleared the cat completely. Changed dist. Cap plugs and wires. Seafoamed the engine and put additives in the fuel. Found the IAC in plugged. I went on replaced it. The truck was running better but for about five miles from a cold start still had a rough idle. After that the idle got better. Never really seemed to have the power when you put your foot in it so I kept looking for other issues. So trouble code says 32 EGR. I remove and clean that and at the same time I changed the EGR vacuum solenoid and PCV valve which looked ok. Now the truck want hardly stay running!! Idles so rough I am scared its going to mess something up and absolutely has no power! And the suction through the air filter sounds like it is going to cave the fender well/hood in LOL! Pulled code and it says 52 which is power steering and I had changed that and dos away with the pressure sensor no biggie. Another code is 31 EGR position sensor...replaced that. Reset computer and now the code is 22 MAP sensor. Could the MAP sensor make it run that bad? Any help would be much appreciated!

 

Fuel filter? Probably not main issue but never hurts to change. Especially with the **** fuel now days.

 

I wonder if the EGR valve is stuck open now?

Make sure the pintle inside the EGR valve is fully closed. If not, then it'll just act like it's gonna crap our on ya.

You can plug the hose end with a penny, I think or use a piece of sheet metal and block it off at the intake.

 

Forgot to mention I had replaced the fuel filter as soon as I bought it but I do agree there is a lot of bad gas these days

 

Well I kind of wondered that myself so I took it off checked it again and seems to be working so I reinstalled the EGR valve. After that it is when I got the egr position sensor bad and I replaced that.

 

If your unsure about it, just block the intake off with a piece of sheet metal, just for troubleshooting.

If the seat on the pintle doesn't seal, then it'll big a intake leak, except that it will be sucking in exhaust.

 

Just checked MAP sensor and it checked out good. Looked at the TPS sensor and the volt out put went from 27 to 151 so I am guessing that this could be my problem. Sound possible? I was cycling my throttle open and closed during the test and when it was almost closed I heard something make a noise like the butterfly slapping. Maybe it was sticking I guess? To top that off it is giving me the 11 code system good. I'm not for sure why it's not reading the bad TPS

 

I am going to block the EGR and see how it acts.

 

The TPS voltage should be between ~0.6VDC (closed throttle) to ~4.75 VDC (Wide Open throttle). What were you using to get the values you listed?

 

Well I am not great at using the multimeter but I tried what I thought was VDC and was getting 0.4 at closed and no more when I opened the throttle. I thought maybe that was the wrong setting so I changed to another setting. I will look and get back with more specifics this evening.

 

The codes that you are getting you are not telling us if they are KOEO, CM or KOER codes.

You act like the old codes go away so I would guess that they are just the KOEO electrical test codes as you said nothing about clearing the codes.
So I would like to know what codes you have in the CM part of the self-test.

 

The codes are pulled KOEO. What is CM stand for? Yes the other codes are cleared.

 

CM: Continuous Memory: The portion of KAM used to store DTCs generated during Continuous Self-Test.

When you run the KOEO self-test the KOEO electrical check any errors found will be displayed twice. These codes can not be cleared. Then you will get a space code (10).
Then the CM codes will be displayed twice and are stored for 60 start ups or until they are cleared.

 

Ok so I blocked the egr. Almost wouldn't crank and ran worse!

 

Ok so I re checked the TPS. I had to probe the green wire instead of black as the tutorial said to. Now I get 1.03 VDC and 4.57VDC open. Guessing now I should change TPS and clean throttle body?