Man that sure acts/sounds like mine when the glow plugs weren't working. Right at first there is made a slight hiccup just like mine would.
I think I need new batteries after listening to yours, mine don't crank anything like that.

I think my next tires will be the duratrac's, theses trucks in 2wd will spin pretty easy on wet/snowy roads no matter what tires you run.

 

I know, I know its bad. I'd really rather not use it, but its the only way its started. So I'll have to start tomorrow, so I can get it to the shop, and we can work on it and do some tests. So if I have to use the starting fluid, how do I disconnect the glow plug relay wire like you said? Thanks!

And so we did a new GPR, 8 new motorcraft glow plugs, and new motorcraft batteries. We also changed the fuel filter, which fixed an apparent fuel leak, my Dad's mechanic found. Other than that we haven't replaced anything. For testing I'm not exactly sure, since I didn't do or see any of it. But I think they load tested the batteries, OHM'ed the glow plugs before and after the new ones, and I think they also tested the injectors somehow and I think the glow plug system too, but am not for sure on the last two. I'll make they check everything again tomorrow. As far as I know it all checked out good.

So what exactly should I make sure is checked/tested tomorrow to rule out some of the easier/cheaper fixes?

Huh see that makes me think and hope that maybe its just that the glow plugs aren't getting power somehow.... maybe? And with the batteries, maybe its just me, but it sounded like, after watching the two videos was that it was cranking a lot faster the second time around, after I had drove it and let the batteries charge up. Not sure if that means anything but just something that I noticed.

And yeah so far the duratrac's have been good. I definitely like the look of them. I figured it was just the nature of the truck and not the tires.

 

Instead of ether, wasn't there something else to use as starting fluid? WD-40 comes to mind, but I'm not sure at all. Does anyone else know?

 

Just watched the 2nd video......

Hey everyone , shouldn't the tachometer be bouncing while trying to start?

 

On 99's and 00's they do, but 01 and up the tech doesn't move when trying to start. Or at least the ones I've seen

 

Cool, I couldn't remember......thanks for the clarification!

 

It's not the only way... it's the shortcut way. If you cause serious damage (as mentioned by the wise Pikachu), how does that conversation go? "Well... at least I got it to start... I win. Now, let's call the tow service to have it hauled to the shop for a new motor. Too bad about the block, it sure would have been nice to get a core on it."

I'm just sayin'

 

Ok, so if you could get clarification and some of the multimeter reading from the test that would help out a lot in this thread. Everyone could then rule out the glow plug system and move on to troubleshooting other possibilities.

After watching your 2nd video it reminds me when my F-250 wouldn't start last winter. My starter & GPR were the problems in my situation. I replaced the GPR, UVC harness, and all the glow plugs (since 2 or 3 tested iffy). Still wouldn't start right, replaced the starter and bingo....happy camper.

But before you move on troubleshooting the starter or injectors we should get clarification on the pieces tested in the glow plug system.

 

This thread is so full... I only had time to skim it. I saw mention of a scan tool and checking all the critical values. There is a link in my signature that covers no-starts step-by-step. I think it's the last link, but click around anyway because there are a few good ones, including one that covers the symptoms of tired injectors. Here's a video of brand new injectors with air in the High Pressure Oil System (making low ICP):

 

Remove the wire from the inner large terminal on the glow plug relay. The glow plug relay is the rear-most of the two relays; the intake air heater relay is the forward one. See below before you do that, though.

Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the passenger side battery. Then check the voltage at the outer large terminal of the glow plug relay. They should be very close to the same. If there is no voltage on the outer terminal, there is a wiring problem that needs to be resolved. With the key off, there should be no voltage on the inner terminal of the relay; that's normal.

Turn the key on, and check the voltage at both the outer and inner large terminals of the glow plug relay. The voltage at the outer terminal will be lower than with the key off. The voltage at the inner terminal should be close to the voltage at the outer terminal. If there's a large voltage drop between the 2 terminals, the relay is probably defective. Using a pair of booster cables, carefully connect the two large large terminals on the relay to each other. Wait 30-45 seconds and try starting it. If it starts that confirms bad relay.

If there is no change, you can use the multimeter to check the resistance of each glow plug by ohming through the valve cover gasket connectors. The glow plugs are the 2 pins on the front and the 2 pins on the back of the connector. Ohm between those four pins and ground (engine block, head, etc.) They should all read somewhere between 0.6 and 2.0 ohms (give or take a bit). If any of them have a very high or infinite reading, that indicates a problem either with the glow plug or the wiring. While the connector is out, inspect all the pins for evidence of burning/melting.

If all of that checks out, you can be pretty sure the glow plug system is functioning properly. If you had high resistance on any, with no evidence of burning or melting on the connector, remove the valve cover and remove and the connector on the inside of the gasket. If that is good, ohm between the inner and outer connector pins on the gasket. They should all be nearly zero ohms. Any high/infinite resistance readings require replacement of the valve cover gasket to resolve.

If the readings across the gasket pins were good, ohm each glow plug that had a bad reading by removing the push-on connector from it and testing from the pin on top of it to ground.

At this point, the most of the easiest/cheapest components have either been ruled out or confirmed as the problem.

I think that about covers it. if I've left anything out, I hope someone will jump in and say so.

 

I just had to replace both of my batteries I went thru interstate batteries and bought the commercial diesel batteries they are like a boat battery so you can get more cranking power and longer cranks in the cold weather , then it still wouldn't start so I started looking into it and found battery lug at starter cracked so I spliced in a new piece of 3/0 battery cable and new lug because dealer wanted 175$ for new pos cable

 

RedDevil460, here is how your injection system works. Your whole "no start" issue is because the oil is too thick. Change it and use 10w-30 above 30^ or 5w-30 from 0^ or higher. The 99 Powerstroke uses injectors that use HIGH pressure oil to open and inject fuel into the cylinders. If the oil is too thick, the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump ) cannot pump the oil into the injector orifice and therefore the injector will NOT open. Changing to a light weight oil in the winter will ensure cold weather starts because the HPOP can push the thinner oil through the injectors. Think of the injector on these motors like a hydraulic ram. If you can't pump oil into a ram, it won't move. The oil pressure assists the FICM (Fuel Injector Control Module) in opening the injectors.

Here is a quicky test. If the "Wait to start" light stays on only for 5-10 seconds when it's cold enough to have the "no start" situation, the oil is the problem. The GPCM (Glow Plug Control Module ) uses the oil temp to know how long to keep the glow plugs on. I just went though this very same scenario with my 97 Turbo PS, changed the oil to 10w30, and now she hits on all 8 without needing to plug in.

Another KEY component with these motors is the starter. If this engine doesn't turn over at approxiamately 800-900 RPM, it almost won't combust the fuel. I also installed a new starter (not a reman ) and mine is like a new truck. After installing the starter and changing the oil (both at the same time), it still would not start. I use a friend's 03 SD and was able to spin it over at 1600 RPM. This was necessary in order for the HPOP to force the old oil out of the injectors to enable it to start. As soon as it fired, it screamed to 3500 as if i had hit it with a defibulator. Now she fires great, ever time. And the "wait to start" light stays on for about 30 seconds on cold days now, just like it is suppose to do. Typically it was only on for 5 seconds.

Just my .02 and recent experience.

 

There isn't any 10w30 oil that is rated for diesel, so don't use it.
There is something wrong with your tach if it showed 1600 rpms while cranking, there is no way it cranked that fast.

 

While oil viscosity could be playing a role in this, his truck probably doesn't have a glow pug control module, unless it's a California truck. The truck doesn't even idle at 800-900 RPM, much less need that speed to start it.

 

Correct on the GPCM. Glow plug control is built into the ECM on the later models but still performing the same function, using external relays for the switching. I was thinking about my 97 when referencing that actual unit. Semantics...

Concerning the engine oil: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/powers~1.htm
I buy 10w30 from my local dealer.