I agree with others here.
You have a combination of batteries, cable ends (replace/clean), and glow plugs. You state the GPR is already replaced.
This list is from easiest to hardest. I wish you the best.

PS I think the house breaker is tripping because the surge/pull of the heater is too close to the max capability of the breaker.

 

My truck would have trouble starting under 29 degrees too. Below that it would crank for a while and smoke a whole lot. Above that it fired right up with ease and with mild smoke. I got fed up and repaired my block heater. That helped but there was something obviously wrong still. I tested the resistance on my glow plugs and found all but one had infinite resistance (open). My truck was trying to start with one glow plug. My truck just rolled 230k, with new glow plugs and 5w40 my truck starts in single digits with remote start, without a struggle and with only a puff of black smoke. No more white smoke. I would do as the others say: test/replace batteries, test gp system. You can also test the block heater resistance the same as a glow plug. The reading will be much different but it's the same principle. Mine was 11k ohms I think, and is in good working order.

 

The block heater should show about 15 ohms resistance.

 

Thanks for the correction ^

 

The wires for the plug comming off the block heater tend to wear often as well. I'd check that for cracks

 

any luck troubleshooting?

 

Hey sorry guys I've been busy the past few days. But thanks to everyone that posted. Lots of good advice.

I think my Dad's mechanic is going to start working on it either tomorrow or Friday. I think I'll have them check the block heater, batteries/cables, and glow plugs. How exactly can you check the glow plugs? Is the way like White Buffalo and HKusp said a good way to test the glow plugs? Because for some reason my Dad's mechanic it still convinced that the only way to test the glow plugs is once you have the valve covers off.

I'm thinking its the glow plugs, because it still won't start at all. The only way it will start is with ether. And we only did that a few times, I wish we didn't have to, but its the only way it will start, even with the block heater and battery charger on it. It did pass e-check though, haha, did that Saturday. That was the last time we started it until today when my Dad took it to the shop today. And one thing my Dad's mechanic said yesterday that did make sense was that, possibly the GPR was stuck on, so it was constantly taking power from the batteries, and then ended frying all the glow plugs. This would explain why the batteries seemed weak, because they seem to have plenty of power now, and why the glow plugs seemed to suddenly go out. Just a thought, but it does make sense.

So this is a video of what it does. It just sounds weak and won't kick over, and smokes a lot. You guys don't think it could be anything other than glow plugs or batteries do you...

 

The smoke shows it's getting fuel, and it sounds like it's cranking over just fine. The only thing left is heat to ignite the fuel. Heat comes from compression, but when it's cold the heat of compression isn't quite enough to ignite the fuel. That's where the glow plugs come into play. Take a pair of booster cables and use them to complete the circuit across the 2 large posts on the glow plug relay. Wait 30 seconds or so and try starting it again. If it starts right up, the problem is the relay. If it still doesn't start, the problem is downstream of the relay. UVC harnesses, valve cover gaskets, and/or or the glow plugs themselves.

EDIT: The above assumes you've already made sure you're getting 12v going TO the relay.

 

Ok thanks for everyone's help with this so far.

So today we put in replaced the all the glow plugs with new motorcraft ones, and replaced the batteries with new motorcraft ones as well. The batteries tested pretty weak, and when they tested the glow plugs, they didn't show anything at all, so those were shot.

So now it has a new GPR, all new glow plugs, and new batteries, so hopefully that all solves the problem. I let it sit outside in the cold for an hour or two before I left tonight to go home, I know not much, but it started fine. We'll see how it starts in the morning, its supposed to be pretty cold tonight.

Thanks guys.

 

Sounds like you did it right, hope it works out well for you. You have a very nice looking truck by the way.

 

How did she start this morning?

 

Yup I tried to do it right. I really didn't want to do only glow plugs, or only batteries, especially since I knew both were weak. I knew it would probably need both, at least I thought. And thanks! It took awhile to find a good one. Your's looks great too, looks really clean. I sort of wanted that tan two tone on mine too, but you can't be too picky. I like the chrome on mine too, it does the same thing of breaking up the white a little bit, which I think looks better.

Well, lets just say it didn't.... Same as before. I'm not too happy.

I don't get it. I thought for sure it would start, with new glow plugs and new batteries. I don't know what the problem would be. Maybe the harnesses on the valve covers? Maybe something with the getting power to the glow plugs? Everything seemed to test fine yesterday after they put the glow plugs and batteries in.

I don't know, I'm stumped. Got any ideas guys?

 

How cold was it this morning when you tried it and did you have it plugged in? If not I would try plugging it in for a couple of hours and see if that helps. If it does I would guess your looking at injectors getting tired.

 

you might try jumping the glow plug relay & try to start, just to confirm some process of elimination.

 

Test GPR, even though its new, test it anyways. If that checks out, then test to make sure juice is getting to the glow plugs. Then go from there.