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Hey guys,my wife had an Avital 5303 remote start/keyless entry/ alarm system installed in my truck. We have been using this same car sound shop for years so I'm confident in their abilities. So after the install the door locks will lock sometimes and other times they won't. They bump like they're getting power though. I know I had one door not locking but now it's all doors doing the same thing. The locks have been slower in recent times so I know they were getting weak. I was looking at actuators on Oreillys website and came across door lock "relays". Could a weak "door lock relay" cause this? And could anyone tell me exactly which relay is for the door locks? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated..Thanks..Phil
EDIT: The door locks behave the same whether it's from the door switch or the remote.
There's a thermistor in the lock actuator that goes bad over time, and causes weak actuation. That sounds like what you're experiencing, especially if you notice they work better when it's cold outside. There's a thread on fixing it here: CLICKY!
If all your door locks are slow (at the same time) sounds as though it could be current delivery which is controlled by the GEM RKE relay. They are used but I have never seen one bad. If it's just occasional with one door (most times the drivers door as it cycles more than any other door).
It takes only about 30 minutes to change it out once you've done a few as I have. My first time was in excess of 2 hours. Hint: Take a picture of the linkage and connectors. I did the mod which it describes in the above link. However, it only lasted a few days.
Yeah all the doors are slow to lock/unlock. Sometimes they move with some sort of speed and sometimes they will only bump. The passenger rear door has giving me trouble for a while now,but the other three just started showing more after the install of the Avital system that's why I was wondering about the relay I saw on the Oreillys website. I know about the actuators,I was just wondering if there could be anything else..Thanks..Phil
I would suggest removing one door panel and supplying 12vdc to the switch and see if it operates better than it does now. This would give you an idea of wheatear or not its the locking unit or add on security system. BTW, if you choose to perform the test REMOVE THE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION to prevent a spike to the PCM. A PowerProbe works nicely for this.
Ok,I have my rear door out and trying to do some checking on my lock actuator. When I hook my multi meter to the plug that goes in to the actuator I'm only getting 11. volts. Is this normal voltage?, I would think it would be 12v but wasn't sure. IF..it's supposed to be getting 12v and only getting 11v..what would be suspect in this issue?..Thanks..