Engine Dis-assembly. May need pointers.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 4
From: Southern AZ
if you are reusing the cam keep the lifters in order.
richard
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL
Yeah the main caps are actually stamped 1 to 5 from front to back of the engine. I've got lotzzz of pics!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 4
From: Southern AZ
Richard
EDT: odds are you will be re-using the pistons and doing a re-ring... why pull the engine down in the first place?
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL
When I purchased the engine the accessories, heads, oil pan, front cover were all off. So it was down to the block/crank/pistons/cam. It had been sitting in a barn for a little while that way (partially covered, but not properly
) so there was a bit of surface rust in the cylinders and needed honing due to that.Also a recessed valve in #8 cylinder, so the heads needed checked over anyway... might as well go ground up to make sure the issue that caused it wasnt in the bottom end.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 4
From: Southern AZ
I appreciate that! If you're ever traveling...
When I purchased the engine the accessories, heads, oil pan, front cover were all off. So it was down to the block/crank/pistons/cam. It had been sitting in a barn for a little while that way (partially covered, but not properly) so there was a bit of surface rust in the cylinders and needed honing due to that.
Also a recessed valve in #8 cylinder, so the heads needed checked over anyway... might as well go ground up to make sure the issue that caused it wasnt in the bottom end.
When I purchased the engine the accessories, heads, oil pan, front cover were all off. So it was down to the block/crank/pistons/cam. It had been sitting in a barn for a little while that way (partially covered, but not properly
) so there was a bit of surface rust in the cylinders and needed honing due to that.Also a recessed valve in #8 cylinder, so the heads needed checked over anyway... might as well go ground up to make sure the issue that caused it wasnt in the bottom end.
That way you can save a bunch of money on pistons. unless there is unusual wear on the pistons they should be good for a million miles or more.... it's the cylinders that wear.
Don't buy parts till the machine shop checks and finishes everything. that way if you need under/oversize components you are not buying things twice.
Also, once you get the rings and pistons set have them balance it. It might not matter that much in an engine that revs to 4000 rpm but for the $100 many shops charge it's worth it for that extra smoothness.
Just have them re-build the heads.
Richard
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HAMS64
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
6
Jul 25, 2017 01:16 PM
petemcl
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Jun 19, 2014 04:14 PM
RacinNdrummin
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
101
Nov 1, 2012 12:06 AM
gdgerland
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Mar 13, 2009 05:17 PM