460 CRANK PULLED OUT
front main bearing
rear main bearing
front main cap
most all rod bearings look like this
-I would say this may be typical with a engine that may have, not sure, 100..200,000 miles on it?
-How much to have a machine shop rework the crank? (to me it looks like it is in pretty good shape)
--So many different types of cranks, materials and what not, for a replacement, anything to stay away from?(I am not looking to build this 460, just keep it basically stock)
-- In the next pic you can see that one of the push rods are of a different color. Could it be it has been replaced at one time or another? Makes me think it got hot?
top of the rod seems colored.
I am a bit lost as to what I may do. If i slap a crank in it and go, what next? SO I am really thinking hard about going with something different in a engine. May be a CV conversion, or maybe a 302. Not sure but like to hear what you all have to say about what you see.
Thanks as always,
Hammy
Thanks for the comments. This is the kind of thing I am looking for. How would others move forward. Yes, it seems that I am this far into it, why would I drop a new or machined crank back into it without breaking down the complete engine, machine it all and put back together. It comes down to logistics, if you will, moneys.
I have a local engine builder but most I talk to spend crazy moneys for a mild build. I could get a new short block, a bit more reasonable if I stay within a "stock" build. I could buy another used engine, but then back to the same issues.
Thanks, look forward to other comments....Hammy
Where I live, an '03 and newer Crown Vic at auction will cost between 800 and 1200.00, which is the cost of rebuilding your 460. then you have all the time and trouble swapping the front end, hooking up steering, cutting and welding brackets and things to make the CV stuff fit your truck.
So, it boils down to whether you want the same as you've got now, only repaired, for around 1200.00, and 10 to 15 hours labor -
Or, you can have 4 wheel disc brakes, power rack and pinion, positraction rear diff (most cop cars came with them) Fuel injection, and a lowered, highly modified truck which behaves like a cop car for around 1200.00 and 60 to 100 hours of blood sweat and tears.
It may be that someone ran it low...I have had the truck for about 3 years now but haven't drove it enough to see if the oil drops. Didn't seem to be burning it.
You think 1200 and or about that to rebuild the engine? Is that having the machining done and reassembly myself? I would think so.?
Then I have the burden of it being assembled right, which I have the abilities to do so and or the best I can
. You only get one chance with a engine. I ask this for some of the guys I talked to in the area say they are putting 5 to 6 grand in a rebuilt engine. Yea I think some are modified, but I sure didnt want to go that far specially if I keep the straight axle...Yea CV is calling me to be honest...BUT I so love the "looks" of the straight axle..handling is another issue. But I wouldn't do a CV with out the front end, engine, trans, rear end.
Thanks
Hammy
So, that 460 could be machined at my machinist's place, and rebuilt in my garage for between 970 and 1200.00. I am an ASE certified master mechanic, so this kind of thing is right in my wheelhouse.
My advice to you and all hobbyists (including me) is: trust yourself, and carefully follow all the procedures the part manufacturer or Motor or Chilton (or if you've got one - Manufacturer's) shop manual recommends, and you'll rarely if ever have a failure.
This is how I became certifiable
. I built a 302 back about 10 years ago. All the machining and rebuild kit was already purchased, I bought it and all I did was build it, and it held up fine. I agree, attention to detail, clean room, reading materials, time, OH and patience...
Again thanks for the comments, It gives me something to think about.
Hammy









