An Engine Disassembly Thread
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Northeast Ohio
I remember when I had mine on the stand while I was completing my swap. Cleaning and painting everything took forever felt like I was never going to get it done just have to keep plugging away at it
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Exton, PA
I was actually just thinking of gray today. I am thinking ill paint the whole truck satin black with a few almost-black-grey highlights. Maybe I'll do the engine compartment a lighter grey and the engine lighter still.
I'll have to look up 'ford grey'. When did they use that?
I'll have to look up 'ford grey'. When did they use that?
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Posting Guru
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From: Exton, PA
Yeah, I can only imagine. I cleaned the upper part of the heads real good before taking the valve covers off. I feel like I used a whole can of degreaser on just those two spots. The valley is going to be no fun. At least I have compressed air to blow it dry between rounds of cleaning. I can't imagine the time and quantity of paper towels that would be needed "the old fashioned way."
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Posting Guru
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From: Exton, PA
I have used a lot of stove paint in my day and there is some rated up to 1400F (most is 1200F). I painted my catalytic stove 2 years ago with the 1200F stuff and even the paint right near the catalyst (operating temp 1000-1400F) looks perfect today. so, for $20 a can, i'll probably just go that route. 5 or 6 coats gets a nice thick build that [apparently] holds up to temp OK. stinks like heck the first few times you fire it though!
I also sprayed my rusty DP and exhaust system welds with silver stove paint last summer, so we'll see how it holds up over the winter...
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From: Exton, PA
i'll spray it down again tonight, then tomorrow again and go at it on sat, hopefully.
if the bolts on the driver's side manifold come off significantly easier, i'll definitely be forwarding this thread to Kano (the makers of Kroil)!
here's to hoping for 8 easy wrench turns and no sawzall/grinder work on Saturday! :-)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Kroil is some good stuff for sure! I use it in the shop on stuck fasteners. Shock the bolts good with a big chisel or punch an a big hammer, then soak them again. Most of those studs aren't stuck so much in the head as they are rusted and fused into the manifolds themselves. If you can loosen up that rust and get some Kroil in there they will be a lot easier to break loose. Another trick is to try to tighten the bolts first. That way you're not working the edges you need off the fastener while you try to get them to break loose. Typically if you can get them to budge slightly to tighten them, then you can back them out pretty easily.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Exton, PA
that's a good call. I've done that before by mistake - when reaching in upside down and backwards somewhere and it does work quite well - as long as you don't twist the head off before you figure out the right way to turn it! turning bolts on an engine stand shouldn't be so complicated, so hopefully I'm OK. it is on the opposite side of the engine as the other manifold, though - i hope i can figure it out!!!
and i agree, its more of the bolt heads rusted fast to the manifold than the threads in the head. i believe there was actually anti-seize on the threads in the head. i guess the factory put it on back in 96.
i'll go round under the head of the bolt with a chisel like i did on the other side and smack each one real good on the head with the single-jack.
and i agree, its more of the bolt heads rusted fast to the manifold than the threads in the head. i believe there was actually anti-seize on the threads in the head. i guess the factory put it on back in 96.
i'll go round under the head of the bolt with a chisel like i did on the other side and smack each one real good on the head with the single-jack.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orrville, Ohio
The other thing that works well for breaking things loose if you can get to it is an air hammer (air chisel). It shouldn't be hard for you to reach those since it will be on a stand. If you have one, that may help too. I'm sure you'll get it one way or another.
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From: Exton, PA
don't have an air hammer/chisel, but for sure, i'll not be defeated on this one! I also just got my acetyle torch up and running, so i'll try some heat on those suckers as well! never torched a bolt for removal, but I'm guessing it would be soak in penetrating oil, heat immediately before attempted extraction, then soak down one more time and turn? or do you just try to remove while its red hot?
worst case is an afternoon with the sawzall, grinder, a backwoods and some highlife. still better than a good day at work, that's for sure!
worst case is an afternoon with the sawzall, grinder, a backwoods and some highlife. still better than a good day at work, that's for sure!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
If you have access to a torch what I would do is to heat the manifold around the bolt and then work on the bolt while the manifold is still hot. The heat expands whatever you get the hottest, so heating the manifold is going to loosen the bolt's fit in the manifold. If you heat them both it will still help burn off some of the rust, but if you can get most of the heat into the manifold you should be able to get them loose.
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Posting Guru
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From: Exton, PA
I've debated this one internally before and haven't come to a conclusion. I've have thought you'd want to heat the bolts so that they would expand and lengthen, thus breaking the rust free. there'd be slight radial expansion, but its a decent clearance fit through the manifolds, so shouldn't bind up. if you head the manifolds, they will expand and grow, thus putting more pressure under the head of the bolt and making the removal even harder.
again, just my thinking with no real experience behind it. anyone else have a vote in this debate :-)
again, just my thinking with no real experience behind it. anyone else have a vote in this debate :-)
