Thanks, Nate. yeah, pulling the other manifold is definitely the "right" thing to do, and with the experience on the pass side, I'm sure it'll go much quicker over there. and I have the oiler cooler off already and definitely plan to rebuild. the center section is pretty rusty though, so I'm trying to decide on replacing it now, or just cleaning up and painting it. I think I'm leaning to cleaning what I have as my mental tally of parts costs is adding up quick - and I haven't even put it on paper yet, when it will surely double!

speaking of paint though, my plan is blast and high-temp paint the manifolds, but I'm thinking I should probably high-temp paint the exhaust side of the heads as well - they're pretty darn rusty and I can't see regular engine paint holding up well there for very long.

AND speaking of engine paint, I realize I'm getting ahead of myself, but is there a consensus on "proper" paint color for these engines. it looks like the factory color was black, but I'm thinking Ford Blue or International Red on the block when I'm done. not sure i'll like the red, though, so maybe blue it is? its not a Ford motor, though. ...the tough choices in life.

as for the #7 cylinder knock - that makes me feel somewhat better, Nate. is #7 the back passenger one? I always forget the order. is it odds on the right, evens on the left, increasing as you go rearward? anyway, yeah, I'd def say its a tap on this one - and I put an HPX on this engine, but it didn't really do much for the sound. it def idled smoother though, and ICP was smoother, but no real difference in the tap sound. I plan to do a better HPOP on the rebuild, though so maybe that'll make a difference.

and thanks for the advice on the Harmonic Balancer - I have a 1/2" impact gun, so i'll try that first. its not super strong, though, so I'm not real hopefully it'll work. maybe the Kroil will help on that one as well :-)

and does the reservoir come off the HPOP first, then the pump come off?

 

Looking good Jp!

I'd do the other exhaust manifold too, if it were mine sitting on a stand.

The freeze plug I got at napa.

Impact the balancer bolt out, then use a puller to remove it.

Hpop reservoir does not need to come off.

FORD BLUE all the way for paint!!! JMO of course!

 

Acetone and auto trans fluid at 50-50 mix is a good one also, do I have that right Darin? He listed a bunch of penetrating oils on a build thread I had last winter. Stinks but so does Kroil!!

Thanks Nate for bringing up my nightmare, LOL. Yeah JP, when you put the HPOP back in, torque them to specs. Do not over tighten those two bolts, its not necessary anyway because of the angle on the gears. When the motor is running, its actually drawing the HPOP pump INTO the timing cover. Mine stripped out from putting in the forth HPOP, not over tightening the bolts. Be very gentle with those two bolts, LOL

 

That is right Glenn, and it works well.

 

well that's 3 votes to 0 on doing the other manifold - its settled then! and thanks for the plug, balancer and HPOP info. I think I may be leaning toward blue, but not sure. was there not an orangey-red international color way back in the day?

and the care with the HPOP is definitely noted. I would imagine there is a torque spec in the manual for those bolts and i'll surely look it up ahead of time! I have ZERO desire to helicoil any threads up there!

i have both of those in the barn right now, so i'll have to give it a go. i knew i should have bought that extra little oil squirter at Tractor Supply last time i was there, though!

 

Sounds like you got all the questions answered except for the cylinder order. From the front they're numbered left to right, front to back. Like such:


The easy way to remember it is that they're numbered in the order that the connecting rods land on the crank (starting at the harmonic balancer). Since the passenger side bank is a little farther forward, it goes first.

 

Yep - all questions answered - thanks guys! i just wish i could work on the engine that fast!

as for the firing order, that was the idea i had in my head, Nate, but was never sure it was exactly right. and did you draw that picture yourself :-) is-a berry niiiice!

 

I should know the torque valve of the hpop by heart JP but I don't remember, LOL On the mule I went from stock 15° to SD 17° to the adrenaline to the T500. To many changes weakened the threads IMHO and Joey at Terminator said he has seen this also. Use anti-seize also.

 

I put anti-sieze on everything, so i'l lbe good there! I hate removing rusted/corroded fasteners more than just about anything else, so if I remove any screws that I've installed, I should be good.

and as far as I know, this'll be just the second HPOP going back onto it, so hopefully I've got a few changes left in them before I am calling you asking for helicoil sizes :-)

 

replace the manifold studs with stainless studs and use antiseize on the threads. that way you nevernhave to worry about them ever again.

ARP may have a set.

Richard

 

Personally, I always like to sandblast and paint any components I remove or replace, that's if there's time. One important rule with sandblasting though, masking, masking, masking.

 

I do have that thread and the size of the helicoils I used from fastenall but lets just leave it buried, bad memories, LOL

 

studs on the manifolds is a GREAT idea. I'm always afraid of using stainless in high heat applications, though due to galling concerns. grade 8 steel studs with generous high temp anti-seize will probably be sufficient, but i'll have to do some research on stainless exhaust studs. ARP is definitely a good place to start.

and I do plan to sandblast the manifolds for sure. I would think a real good cleaning with air after the fact would be sufficient there. as for the block and heads, I plan to order some of the magnetic, silicone masking plugs that eastwood sells and see how they seal the ports on the head. I'm leary about blasting the block and heads what with all the open holes i'll have in it. i'll pipe plug and stopper every hole I can, but may chicken out and just wire brush and hand sand everything prior to paint...

 

Ever consider powder coating the manifolds?

And im with Darin on the Ford Blue!
I am slightly bias to that color though.

 

Ford gray isn't bad, its grown on me!