97 ranger 2.3 just stopped running
#1
97 ranger 2.3 just stopped running
Hi all, first post
Have a 97 2wd/man with 2.3. driving down the road today and just died on me, felt like a broken timing belt (had that happen on past veh), belt is not broke and if it slipped it should not have just died, have spark (on exh side) and can smell gas when trying to restart, did i lose a coil pak and can i switch them to see if one is bad. will check intake spark tomorrow, was just getting ready to do a comp. tune-up(wires/plugs/valve cov gasket/fluids/filters and timing belt) as i've only owned truck for 2 wks and dont know past history. , but really would like to figure out what the prob is before i do this work. truck has 136k on it. Any help is appreciated. Herb Wilkinson, Seattle, Wa.
Have a 97 2wd/man with 2.3. driving down the road today and just died on me, felt like a broken timing belt (had that happen on past veh), belt is not broke and if it slipped it should not have just died, have spark (on exh side) and can smell gas when trying to restart, did i lose a coil pak and can i switch them to see if one is bad. will check intake spark tomorrow, was just getting ready to do a comp. tune-up(wires/plugs/valve cov gasket/fluids/filters and timing belt) as i've only owned truck for 2 wks and dont know past history. , but really would like to figure out what the prob is before i do this work. truck has 136k on it. Any help is appreciated. Herb Wilkinson, Seattle, Wa.
#2
If you lost a coil pack, it would still start and run, especially as you say you have spark on the exhaust side. Only one coil pack fires during startup, so that is normal.
My vote is you've lost your fuel pump. Just because you small gas doesn't mean you are getting proper fuel pressure or enough fuel to start.
My vote is you've lost your fuel pump. Just because you small gas doesn't mean you are getting proper fuel pressure or enough fuel to start.
#3
Hi all, first post
Have a 97 2wd/man with 2.3. driving down the road today and just died on me, felt like a broken timing belt (had that happen on past veh), belt is not broke and if it slipped it should not have just died, have spark (on exh side) and can smell gas when trying to restart, did i lose a coil pak and can i switch them to see if one is bad. will check intake spark tomorrow, was just getting ready to do a comp. tune-up(wires/plugs/valve cov gasket/fluids/filters and timing belt) as i've only owned truck for 2 wks and dont know past history. , but really would like to figure out what the prob is before i do this work. truck has 136k on it. Any help is appreciated. Herb Wilkinson, Seattle, Wa.
Have a 97 2wd/man with 2.3. driving down the road today and just died on me, felt like a broken timing belt (had that happen on past veh), belt is not broke and if it slipped it should not have just died, have spark (on exh side) and can smell gas when trying to restart, did i lose a coil pak and can i switch them to see if one is bad. will check intake spark tomorrow, was just getting ready to do a comp. tune-up(wires/plugs/valve cov gasket/fluids/filters and timing belt) as i've only owned truck for 2 wks and dont know past history. , but really would like to figure out what the prob is before i do this work. truck has 136k on it. Any help is appreciated. Herb Wilkinson, Seattle, Wa.
The belt would only have to slip 3 or 4 notches to kill it, and it may have kicked the teeth completely off the belt below the crank sprocket.
#5
They will run with the belt off by 4-5 teeth at the cam, but not well. The PO of my B2300 (same 2.3L engine) installed a timing belt, and had the cam gear off by 6 teeth. I was amazed that it ran, but not surprised that it ran quite poorly..... No CEL or DTC codes either..... I actually drove it home, but it wouldn't run more than 50-55 MPH in 4th, and lost speed if put in 5th. $750 gamble, that paid off.
The crank triggered ignition keeps the spark occuring at the right time, even if the cam is not even spinning, or is incorrectly timed.
136K on a 97, if the belt hasn't been replaced yet, it's certainly due. Good thing these are non-interference engines.
I would check fuel PSI as suggested, and verify that the timing belt is still doing the job of turning the cam. If both check out, verify correct timing mark alignment.
The crank triggered ignition keeps the spark occuring at the right time, even if the cam is not even spinning, or is incorrectly timed.
136K on a 97, if the belt hasn't been replaced yet, it's certainly due. Good thing these are non-interference engines.
I would check fuel PSI as suggested, and verify that the timing belt is still doing the job of turning the cam. If both check out, verify correct timing mark alignment.
#6
97 ranger just died
Thanks for the reply's, update; have spark on intake side, started the teardown for complete maintenence, will be into the timing belt tomorrow, a co-worker said he had his cam sensor cause the same issue, at anyrate will cont with all the planned maint. If still having issues,Will have tocheck my fuel pressure (and fuses related) once i get it back together since already am into it, should probably replace the cid while i'm in there, in the interest of avoiding future forays this deep into the engine, replacing the water pump for the same reason, thanks all and will update with hope to help others, awsome site thanks again, Herb
#7
Takes air, fuel, spark & compression to make em run, so one or more of those has gone missing!!!!
If you have a CEL lit, scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
Since you've already torn into it, its too late to do much trouble shooting, so when you get things put back & didn't find a/the problem & it still won't run, consider the following thoughts.
Under hood power relays for the computer & fuel pump are known problem parts & the A/C power relay can be swapped for one of those to do a quick check. To get an idea on which to do first, when it stopped running, if the dash warning lights were out, suspect the computer power relay & swap it with the A/C power relay. If the warning lights were lit, suspect the fuel pump power relay & swap it with the A/C power relay. If no joy & you can't hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition to run, check the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch to see if its tripped. If you had a passenger with size 12's squirming around when it stopped running, maybe he kicked & tripped the inertia switch, as its in the passenger side foot well just above the carpet line, or maybe its faulty. Ford had some that were back then, so thump to trip it, so that its little red tang pops up, then push down to reset it & see what happens. If still no joy, while there, disconnect its electrical connector & back probe with your multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to check for B+ at KOEO for about 2 seconds when you turn the ignition to Run each time. If your getting B+ to, but not through the inertia switch, replace it.
If all thats ok, move on to check for fuel pressure & volume delivery over time, at the under hood fuel rail schrader valve test port. We should get about 1pt every 15 seconds. PSI should be 35-45 if yours has the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail. If it does, remove its vacuum line to see if its wet inside with fuel. If so, its diaphragm is ruptured & might be why you smelled fuel, so replace the pressure regulator.
While your into the top end on maintenance, be sure to replace the PCV valve & its connecting rubber elbow, while your in there, its due!!!! More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
If you have a CEL lit, scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
Since you've already torn into it, its too late to do much trouble shooting, so when you get things put back & didn't find a/the problem & it still won't run, consider the following thoughts.
Under hood power relays for the computer & fuel pump are known problem parts & the A/C power relay can be swapped for one of those to do a quick check. To get an idea on which to do first, when it stopped running, if the dash warning lights were out, suspect the computer power relay & swap it with the A/C power relay. If the warning lights were lit, suspect the fuel pump power relay & swap it with the A/C power relay. If no joy & you can't hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition to run, check the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch to see if its tripped. If you had a passenger with size 12's squirming around when it stopped running, maybe he kicked & tripped the inertia switch, as its in the passenger side foot well just above the carpet line, or maybe its faulty. Ford had some that were back then, so thump to trip it, so that its little red tang pops up, then push down to reset it & see what happens. If still no joy, while there, disconnect its electrical connector & back probe with your multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to check for B+ at KOEO for about 2 seconds when you turn the ignition to Run each time. If your getting B+ to, but not through the inertia switch, replace it.
If all thats ok, move on to check for fuel pressure & volume delivery over time, at the under hood fuel rail schrader valve test port. We should get about 1pt every 15 seconds. PSI should be 35-45 if yours has the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail. If it does, remove its vacuum line to see if its wet inside with fuel. If so, its diaphragm is ruptured & might be why you smelled fuel, so replace the pressure regulator.
While your into the top end on maintenance, be sure to replace the PCV valve & its connecting rubber elbow, while your in there, its due!!!! More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
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#8
FWIW, the belts generally do not break. They get to where they need dentures, as some teeth get pulled out leaving a gap. When that happens, the cam & ignition timing get out of sync with the crankshaft. Most times, the teeth will be chewed off near the crankshaft sprocket as it has the same load {driving both cam & aux} as the two other sprockets have, and the two other sprockets have a LOT more teeth bearing the load.
Easy check is to remove the black plastic plug from the belt cover, turn the crank to TDC using the cover marks or the keyway at 12:00, and check that the triangle on the cam sprocket is at the pointer behind the plastic plug.
tom
Easy check is to remove the black plastic plug from the belt cover, turn the crank to TDC using the cover marks or the keyway at 12:00, and check that the triangle on the cam sprocket is at the pointer behind the plastic plug.
tom
#9
just finished complete tuneup and when i went to change out the fuel filter found that the gas supply line had slipped off the filter (hence the gas smell) hooked it up and runs just fine after the computer reset. man these little buggers are not very mechanic friendly, i miss the 60's. thanks to all for your insight
#10
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