• Ok, Heres the deal I know you guys probably get tired of giving all this advice to those uninformed like myself but here goes. When I plug in my block heater I have no problems starting my F-250 w/6.0. But if I do not plug it in if the ambient temperature is below 65 degrees it is a 'No Start' situation.Here is the info I gathered thanks to my ScanGaugeII and Eds' FICM Repair Intake Form.
• Key Off Drivers side battery 12.65 Passenger Side 12.84 volts
• KOEO Drivers Side Battery 11.98 Passenger Side 11.93 Volts
• KOEO FICM Output 32.0 volts
• During Cranking FICM 46.0 volts
• FICM while running cold 43.0 volts
• FICM while running cold at 2200RPM 34.5 Volts
• FICM while idling at Operating temperature 46.0 volts

If this is indicative of needing a new FICM or having it rebuilt I am unsure of which to do.

I can buy a new FICM from my local automotive store$250.00. Looking forward to an education thank you one and all for the help.

 

Below 45 volts at anytime and the FICM is toast.

Send the FICM to FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair for repair

Josh

 

In my opinion, you are almost there. Now all you need to do is remove the FICM and send it to Ed. I don't believe that will fix the glow plugs, but it's a start (see what I just did there, sorry for the bad pun). The be sure to follow up with the rest of the suggestions on the form, batteries, alternator

 

Is that my Best option? I only question it because of the cost. I know from reading all the post Ed knows his stuff. But was wondering if I might save some money by buying new one for $250.00

 

SO I have bad Glow plugs as well??

 

Scan it for codes. Bad glow plugs should show up as DTC.

Check alternator output volts, or volts when engine is running.

It sounds like your FICM power side is defective, you can repair yourself or have it repaired.

.

 

IMO new FICM's are made with the same components that often times fail. Yes, the soldering is also an issue that many have fixed themselves, but frequently the issue is component failure. That said, my opinion is that Ed's repair is the best option as he upgrades the critical components.

Listen to advice above ^ on glowplugs.

 

You can buy the one for $250 then when it goes out you could buy another one because the are cold solder joints. Eds are hot solder. Meaning they will last a lot longer and are more durable. The warranty thay comes with it is good as well.. but ultimately the choice is yours. You might save some money in the beginning but spend more in the end and run the risk of getting stranded.

How are you doing Mark. Haven't talked to you in awhile.

 

He only upgrades components if they "test out of spec". It is unclear what components and how many.

.

 

Could be wrong, but I don't believe that that is completely true - especially on the premium service. I guess I will check out the website - haven't been there in a long time.


Edit .............

Looks like the OEM service is as you said - he just replaces the out-of-spec components ($195 and $225). He upgrades components for the Premium ($325) and Ultra service ($425 for lifetime warranty).

 

Scan Gauge shows No Codes and the VLT is 14.1 I am assuming that is good?

 

I love this Forum, Mark,Eric,Chuck you have all confirmed my gut feelings of paying the little extra on the front end getting great quality work I can depend on from Ed. Thanks so much,Harry Now to get on to my other issues ,,,,,,,,LOL Gotta love the 6.0

 

I guess I'm chopped liver LOL

Josh

 

So sorry Josh did not intentionally overlook you ............Reps to you man Sorry for the oversight....Please forgive me

 

I kind of like chopped liver.lol