Transmission acting wierd
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
Transmission acting wierd
I just went out to take my truck up the road and when I put it in drive it just barely moved. Dropped down in in low and low 2 it seemed fine. Also reverse seemed ok. It was fine on saturday when I drove it hpme from work, except for the radiator leaking. I just biught the truck a few months ago and the po didnt own it long so he didnt have much info either. The fluid is a little dark but a local trans shop said it had to many miles and not to change it, 241000. Any advice?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
Likes: 3
From: West Des Moines, IA
Yeah, post more info about your truck. Like year, engine, trans, etc. We can't trouble-shoot anything blind over the internet without having every last detail and as much info as you can give us.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,573
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Does the OD light flash at you? If so what code do you get?
If this were me, first thing I would do is check to see what or if any codes are present(OD light flashing) if not then I'd drain the fluid, drop the pan and see if you have a nice glitter box.
Also, when you put it into manual 1, how does the shift feel and does it feel like its slipping or does it feel like it smashes into gear?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
Likes: 3
From: West Des Moines, IA
I picked this procedure up from somewhere on this site; I don't have the reference post. But here it is:
1. Wire A is the reference voltage sent from the sensor to the computer (orange/white)
TEST: KOEO (key on, engine off) voltage should be approx 5 volts
2. Wire B is ground patnh from FIPL to computer (black/white)
TEST: KOEO voltage should be ?? or less
3. Wire C is the trhottle opening signal sent to the computer from FIPL (orange/white, center wire)
TEST: KOEO at idle, voltage should be approx 1.24 volts. At WOT, voltage should be approx 4.5 volts.
Wow... missed that part. That sounds like a super sketchy piece of advice, unless they were planning on you coming back for a rebuild soon. Once fluid gets too hot, it breaks down and the clutches start rubbing off into it. That's why it gets dark. Definitely change that stuff out.
1. Wire A is the reference voltage sent from the sensor to the computer (orange/white)
TEST: KOEO (key on, engine off) voltage should be approx 5 volts
2. Wire B is ground patnh from FIPL to computer (black/white)
TEST: KOEO voltage should be ?? or less
3. Wire C is the trhottle opening signal sent to the computer from FIPL (orange/white, center wire)
TEST: KOEO at idle, voltage should be approx 1.24 volts. At WOT, voltage should be approx 4.5 volts.
Wow... missed that part. That sounds like a super sketchy piece of advice, unless they were planning on you coming back for a rebuild soon. Once fluid gets too hot, it breaks down and the clutches start rubbing off into it. That's why it gets dark. Definitely change that stuff out.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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He was saying that by changing the fluid and not knowing the history, it could possibly stop pulling. He refuses to change it but told me to at my own risk. The od light doesn't work, so I'm nor sure of any codes yet.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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You must be living right to get 240k+ out of an E4OD.
Check out the FAQ, 6.9/7.3 IDI Diesel New Owner FAQ FordF250 is local E40D masochist and he's posted a ton of testing and adjustment procedures for the Yugo of transmissions.
Check out the FAQ, 6.9/7.3 IDI Diesel New Owner FAQ FordF250 is local E40D masochist and he's posted a ton of testing and adjustment procedures for the Yugo of transmissions.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
Likes: 3
From: West Des Moines, IA
If you change the fluid and the transmission develops other problems, they were already there to begin with and the new fluid just helped bring them to light. So you're not going to break anything any more than it already is; but you might find other problems with it.
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