Name That Part
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
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From: Arlington, Texas
I found the missing screw to my fuel drain in the valley this morning. Seems like its been down there a LONG time! It was buried under a ton of fuel and oil. I wonder if that is one reason my truck runs like doo doo and my mileage is horrible. Although, new injectors or at least injector orings is definitely needed in my near future.. Just holding off as long as I can so I can do the FRX, HPX, fuel pump, Adrenaline HPOP, 38R and injectors all at once.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
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From: Arlington, Texas
Thanks CH!!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 870
Likes: 9
From: Carbondale, CO
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
Thanks for the help guys! Now I need to find my oil cooler lines. It leaks like crazy in the morning until it warms up, but everything is so covered in oil I can't pinpoint where it's coming from. I'll start a new thread for that. Oh, and Mowing Man I wish I had a prize for you! Lol
Are you sure that it is an 'oil leak'? The tube where the fuel bowl drain valve being off and a bolt missing will allow fuel to drain off into the valley. This fuel will drain out a weep hole at the back of the engine. The o-rings on the fuel drain may allow a little more fuel to leak around them until the engine is warmed up. Fix this drain valve with new o-rings and clean everything up and see how that goes.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/fdrain.php
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Let's call him "Harold."
Anyway...For your drain valve...unscrew the four torx screws (or in your case, THREE), and remove the valve. Use a pick to take out the two o-rings. Clean all the yellow paint crud off with a wire brush. Put two new #202 viton o-rings on there. Reinstall the valve back, making sure you put the little chingoletta (I don't know what you call it) on top of the valve body through the small hole in the housing. Tighten the FOUR torx screws. Put Harold on the drain valve nipple.
As for the oil cooler, it is my understanding you have to drain the coolant for sure...but not necessarily the oil. I've never done this job, so others with direct experience will need to chime in.
Anyway...For your drain valve...unscrew the four torx screws (or in your case, THREE), and remove the valve. Use a pick to take out the two o-rings. Clean all the yellow paint crud off with a wire brush. Put two new #202 viton o-rings on there. Reinstall the valve back, making sure you put the little chingoletta (I don't know what you call it) on top of the valve body through the small hole in the housing. Tighten the FOUR torx screws. Put Harold on the drain valve nipple.
As for the oil cooler, it is my understanding you have to drain the coolant for sure...but not necessarily the oil. I've never done this job, so others with direct experience will need to chime in.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
Let's call him "Harold."
Anyway...For your drain valve...unscrew the four torx screws (or in your case, THREE), and remove the valve. Use a pick to take out the two o-rings. Clean all the yellow paint crud off with a wire brush. Put two new #202 viton o-rings on there. Reinstall the valve back, making sure you put the little chingoletta (I don't know what you call it) on top of the valve body through the small hole in the housing. Tighten the FOUR torx screws. Put Harold on the drain valve nipple.
As for the oil cooler, it is my understanding you have to drain the coolant for sure...but not necessarily the oil. I've never done this job, so others with direct experience will need to chime in.
Anyway...For your drain valve...unscrew the four torx screws (or in your case, THREE), and remove the valve. Use a pick to take out the two o-rings. Clean all the yellow paint crud off with a wire brush. Put two new #202 viton o-rings on there. Reinstall the valve back, making sure you put the little chingoletta (I don't know what you call it) on top of the valve body through the small hole in the housing. Tighten the FOUR torx screws. Put Harold on the drain valve nipple.
As for the oil cooler, it is my understanding you have to drain the coolant for sure...but not necessarily the oil. I've never done this job, so others with direct experience will need to chime in.
on and no more leak. I am 100% sure it was oil leaking on the front drivers side when I fired it up on a cold morning and didn't plug in the block heater. It really puked some oil I tell ya, and I just couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. From everything I've read in here it's a pretty safe bet it's the oil cooler orings. Is it best to change the whole line, or are the orings alone acceptable?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Just replace the o-rings and gaskets for the oil cooler. Yes, the oil cooler is on the driver's side.
If it's "really puking," make sure you didn't blow an HPOP line up top. If you did, there will be a lot of oil in your valley.
If it's "really puking," make sure you didn't blow an HPOP line up top. If you did, there will be a lot of oil in your valley.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 367
From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
There are people on here who have replaced the o-rings without pulling the front cooler mount. If I was to do it again that is how I will do it. Just pull the rear mount down and slide the tube to the rear. Some people use presses, c-clamps, ratchet straps, etc.. to assemble the cooler back together but just a little muscle and silicone o-ring lube and mine pushed together.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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