Hi All,

I have a 96 exp actually, but it's the same set up as the 4.0L aeros - and since I have a 3L Aero already, I wanted to see what you all thought.

Turn the key to start, single click at fender mounted solenoid - replaced it, started, but took a little longer to start and stalled once... which it never stalled before like that... started again, and drove it home...

2 days later, went to start it, and CLICK again... though "great, failed in a week!" - so I got a better unit, copper backing for better ground, etc copper poles, etc - swapped it in, SAME DEAL.... no start!

I tried to jump the two poles with a wire, and nothing... saw some light sparks, but I was hoping to hear the starter turn over (course I knew it wouldn't run this way) but nothing, no starter, nothing....

Question is - How can I troubleshoot this? could I have yet a 2nd BAD solenoid? - I tried running a wire from the battery Neg to the back plate of the unit, thinking it wasn't making a good ground, but to no avail...

This unit also has 4 poles on it, where my MC one only had 3... but they say to ignore the I pole, and just use the S pole from the little wire from the ign switch...

on the hot side, I have 4 wires here - 2 are together in a rubber "bracket" thing... my guess is that is from the Battery, and then to the starter... the other two look like they are connected to a fusible link - does this go to the neutrual saftey switch?

should I take just the pair of wires in the rubber bracket, jump them, and see if the starter runs ok? (I know to only do this for a couple of secs)

at my witts end!

Thanks, and Merry Christmas to all

 

Short cut test: Put a short across the two large (Cables & Nuts) on that solenoid;.
The starter should spin over right smartly.

After that test, you'll know what to trouble shoot.

 

tried that, and nothing... as stated - guess that either means I have a low battery or a bad starter? Which is more likely?

would either one kill a solenoid?

Thanks

 

Yes excess amp draw can fry a solenoid .

 

Check the battery terminals and the terminals on the cables that bolt to them. Make sure they're clean on all surfaces that face each other, and that their pinch bolts are properly tightened.

 

Im getting lights as always with it as normal, but I know that the engine/starter needs more than anything else...

I know in my 89 aero, if the battery is just under 12 volts, it will still attempt to try and start... dealt with a dead battery for a long time with that one, and now it great...

I wonder if OBDII cars need to see 12v or more from battery, or no go? just curious what that other pair of wires is for coming off the pos side of the larger terminal of the solenoid - the one is to the starter for sure, which is rubber bracketed to the one coming from the battery...

I'll recheck the pos side of the battery, and clean the posts up really nice, and also get my meter to see if this battery is 12v or less... I guess with the meter, I can have wifey turn the key, and measure the lower post on the solenoid to see if I have voltage there, and if it's the same reading I get from the battery alone... that will tell me everything...

but, I still wonder if the Truck needs 12v+ or no dice at all... seems lately it has been slower to start...

hope I don't need a new starter... anyone know if those are tricky to get at? and where are they? (drivers side, rear of engine?)

It's an Excite Battery - are these junk?

Merry Xmas all! - Thanks for your replies- keep um coming.... :-)

 

Don't assume that a dead battery always acts the same. The starter needs both amperage and voltage to crank. A dead battery or corroded terminals may not deliver enough juice where it needs to go.

 

I think the electronics can work with down to 9 volts; at least that's what we designed to with the earlier EEC systems.

You may see 12V on the battery terminal with no load on it, but a lot can change once you engage the starter, and tries to draw 300-400 amps. If you have a marginal connection, it may be able to support lights, but falls flat when the starter motor tries to run.

 

Before anything, try banging on the starter with a hammer and then try starting. If it starts, then odds are the starter has a dead spot.

or,

You can pull your starter and battery and take them to O'Reilly's, Advance, or Autozone and have them tested for free.

Good Luck.

 

when you try to start, does the electrical die? zero, nada electrical? I had a situation like that with my 4.0 liter not long ago and it first turned out to be a black ground wire from the battery with what looks like a large black "fuse holder" in line with the wire and which goes into the main harness; It had rained like crazy and when I separated the two "fuseholder" pieces, I noticed there was moisture inside, so I sprayed WD40 and it started as if nothing had happened. But then it happened again until I noticed the negative battery Pole was smaller than the terminal in the thick negative cable, I tightened the heck out of it and it still was "lose". Went to the auto parts store and looked until I found a smaller-diameter negative Terminal, replaced the Terminal and it has not happened again.