Totally stumped on transmission problem
#1
Totally stumped on transmission problem
I've got a recently purchased '94 F-150 (straight 6) with a tranny problem that's got me stumped. I've browsed and searched, both via Google and the search engine on this forum, without success. So here goes:
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
#2
Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
622? 662?
Did you test the circuit.
2nd gear circuit running between pin 19 at PCM main connector and the solenoid pack connector down at the trans. Make sure it has continuity between those two points, no continuity to ground?
Verify connections are clean no corrosion, have just a light coat of dielectric grease protecting them?
Did you test the #2 shift solenoid itself.
Verify its resistance is within spec and no continuity to ground through it?
622? 662?
Did you test the circuit.
2nd gear circuit running between pin 19 at PCM main connector and the solenoid pack connector down at the trans. Make sure it has continuity between those two points, no continuity to ground?
Verify connections are clean no corrosion, have just a light coat of dielectric grease protecting them?
Did you test the #2 shift solenoid itself.
Verify its resistance is within spec and no continuity to ground through it?
#4
went thru similar frustration only no codes, turned out to be corrosion and bad connection of wiring at speedo after trying all the usual fluid change checking harness etc.Also the ransmission range sensor can cause these issues and is a common problem area. Ford updated the sensor and connector to solve the issues.
#5
Kickdown
I've got a recently purchased '94 F-150 (straight 6) with a tranny problem that's got me stumped. I've browsed and searched, both via Google and the search engine on this forum, without success. So here goes:
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
What transmission is installed?
Boon
#6
Take the plug off the passenger side of the E4OD behind the two bolt shield.
Remove the back of the plug coving the wires. Check to see if one or more of the wires has come off the plug pins.
Note that the two bolt heat shield is sometimes not put back on over this plug causing these wires to burn off also.
Remove the back of the plug coving the wires. Check to see if one or more of the wires has come off the plug pins.
Note that the two bolt heat shield is sometimes not put back on over this plug causing these wires to burn off also.
#7
Kickdown
I've got a recently purchased '94 F-150 (straight 6) with a tranny problem that's got me stumped. I've browsed and searched, both via Google and the search engine on this forum, without success. So here goes:
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
1. Truck will not shift out of 1st when placed in D. Truck *will* shift normally when you manually shift it from 1 to 2. It will shift from 2 to 3 when you manually shift it, IF you lift off the throttle. If you keep the engine loaded the transmission just freewheels, almost like you shifted into neutral. Once it shifts it pulls fine, locks up solid, etc.
2. Diagnostic code indicates a problem with the #2 shift solenoid.
So, we pulled the transmission pan, and while the fluid in the pan was clean and red, the fluid up in the valve body was burnt, with a fair amount of metallic dust suspended in it. This led to getting the transmission rebuilt, who told us the tranny was seriously worn, with only one clutch disk still pulling.
Unfortunately, when we put everything back together the same symptoms still existed. THEN we found out that the rebuilder didn't replace the solenoid pack, but just cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. So we took the truck back out to him to get everything fixed. This time he's replaced the solenoid pack, but the truck is still having the same problem.
So, what do we do next?
Help!
Mike
I see farther down the replies that you have a E4OD transmission.
Is your "kickdown"working properly in that from OD to 3rd to 2nd by itself?
I spoke with an ex transmission mechanic and he told me that when the kickdown stops working to IMMEDIATELY take it in to a shop unless you want to install the part.
The mechanic showed me the part which is made of hard rubber.
I know that you guys are discussing other options. However, if the kickdown is not working you will BURN UP the clutches in the E4OD.
I was told that it mainly occurs on the 94.
Food for thought.
Boon
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#8
E4OD has no "kickdown", it is 100% computer controlled.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
#9
Misunderstand
E4OD has no "kickdown", it is 100% computer controlled.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
My Bad. I must have misunderstood.
Take care.
Boon
#10
#11
E4OD has no "kickdown", it is 100% computer controlled.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
Solenoid resistance = 20 to 30 ohms / zero continuity to "ground".
It might be the solenoid there is always a chance one has failed however that said its much more likely to be nothing more than a connection problem between it and the computer.
Once get into checking it out odds are pretty high you'll find that wire is damaged at some point between the computer and trans or its connection is loose/corroded either end etc.
Test the circuit first if it checks out then check the solenoid itself, if the solenoid is bad you'll have to replace the pack but doubt it'll come to that.
I seriously doubt that the "re-builder" physically inspected/checked the computer for problems before handing you the bill and keys.
This may not be the repair/fix for the problem you're experiencing, but worth a check.
Bob
#12
Hey, folks, thanks for the suggestions and education!
An update since my first post: the rebuilder replaced the valve body and shift solenoid pack (along with the throttle position sensor (?)), and now the transmission shifts normally but only by manually shifting the transmission. Still won't shift out of 1st when in Drive.
And, although it's probably a moot point now, originally the transmission would freewheel whenever you hit the throttle hard enough to force a downshift.
Finally, my Dad overruled my desire to get the truck back and figure out the problem, he wants it to stay at the transmission shop until it's fixed.
Thanks again for all the help, and have a good one,
Mike
An update since my first post: the rebuilder replaced the valve body and shift solenoid pack (along with the throttle position sensor (?)), and now the transmission shifts normally but only by manually shifting the transmission. Still won't shift out of 1st when in Drive.
And, although it's probably a moot point now, originally the transmission would freewheel whenever you hit the throttle hard enough to force a downshift.
Finally, my Dad overruled my desire to get the truck back and figure out the problem, he wants it to stay at the transmission shop until it's fixed.
Thanks again for all the help, and have a good one,
Mike
#13
Have that shop check the PSOM output from the speedo. With no speed info going into the ECU(speedo probly will show working) It will not shift the transmission at all. Most likely its in limp mode of 2nd gear.
If the speedo is NOT working, then there's a issue for sure! On my 95 E350, the speedo was showing speed but not sending the speed info to the ECU which caused shifting problems like yours.
If the speedo is NOT working, then there's a issue for sure! On my 95 E350, the speedo was showing speed but not sending the speed info to the ECU which caused shifting problems like yours.
#14
Hey, folks, thanks for the suggestions and education!
An update since my first post: the rebuilder replaced the valve body and shift solenoid pack (along with the throttle position sensor (?)), and now the transmission shifts normally but only by manually shifting the transmission. Still won't shift out of 1st when in Drive.
And, although it's probably a moot point now, originally the transmission would freewheel whenever you hit the throttle hard enough to force a downshift.
Finally, my Dad overruled my desire to get the truck back and figure out the problem, he wants it to stay at the transmission shop until it's fixed.
Thanks again for all the help, and have a good one,
Mike
An update since my first post: the rebuilder replaced the valve body and shift solenoid pack (along with the throttle position sensor (?)), and now the transmission shifts normally but only by manually shifting the transmission. Still won't shift out of 1st when in Drive.
And, although it's probably a moot point now, originally the transmission would freewheel whenever you hit the throttle hard enough to force a downshift.
Finally, my Dad overruled my desire to get the truck back and figure out the problem, he wants it to stay at the transmission shop until it's fixed.
Thanks again for all the help, and have a good one,
Mike
Computer needs control of shift solenoid 2 to upshift out of first gear, second gear is 1st and 2nd gear solenoids "On" 3rd gear is 1st gear sol "off" 2nd "On" 3rd is those two sol "off" and "off", without 2 working nothing beyond first gear.
Might be other issues beyond that yea POSM even VSS or its connection with them, however the computer is flagging second gear solenoid KOEO test, it has no connection with it or it doesn't work whichever the case may be.
They need to considerate on the truck now pretty safe bet the trans and its soleniod pack is ok. Get it to pass KOEO test correcting the one code it does throw, move on from there as/if needed.
I'd think it'd cost a small fortune to have a trans shop troubleshoot the issue, some thing you can do with a simple/cheap meter yourself just as easy.
Keep in mind they didn't diagnose the problem right to start with, rebuilt the trans replaced parts in it it probably didn't need to start with based on comments you've made so far. All time money spent on trans still suffers same issue.
Odds are very high all it needed was a simple circuit repaired to start with.
#15
I agree 100% with that statement. If the shop replaced the solenoid pack and the same code is still present then it's a circuit problem. Could be wiring between the PCM and solenoid pack or the driver transistors inside the PCM are bad.