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I did a full guzzie flush a few months ago and changed to the gold coolant because it was a happy medium in cost compared to the ELC. I also swapped out my t-stat for a 203' and finally added a dieselsite.com coolant bypass filter.
A week ago everything was fine....
Today, I noticed the degas bottle empty, I filled it with distilled water and coolant and then noticed a leak - just behind the large pulley at the bottom of the motor up front. My rookie perspective is - it must be something BAD because it looks like it is coming from that pully seal and it is the largest one at the very bottom. There is all sorts of brown residue like it has sprayed out before and cooked to the motor and surrounding areas. I was hoping it was dropping down behind the pulley and dripping off but it doesn't appear to be coming from above the pully - meaning - the seal on the pully may be a concern.
Does anyone know what this could be or what my diagnostic steps should be?
More importantly, would the gold, t-stat and bypass have contributed to this, because it is very weird this rig has little to no issues and then I enhacned it a little bit and now this. Thanks for your support.
By largest pulley on the bottom, are you referring to the crankshaft pulley?
Right above that is the water pump, and the weep hole that is designed to leak coolant when the water pump is bad just so happens to be on the bottom of the water pump (above the crank pulley).
But as Clux said, the thermostat housing is a possibility too. Lots of folks have had issues with that leaking after it was touched.
By largest pulley on the bottom, are you referring to the crankshaft pulley? Right above that is the water pump, and the weep hole that is designed to leak coolant when the water pump is bad just so happens to be on the bottom of the water pump (above the crank pulley). But as Clux said, the thermostat housing is a possibility too. Lots of folks have had issues with that leaking after it was touched.
I can attest to that. Had my tstat housing apart a couple of times trying to get it right.
Probably isn't too bad - most likely your water pump as said above. Same thing happened to me after switching from gold coolant to elc, thought I was making an improvement and really made things worse.
Replace your t-stat gasket first and start thinking about pump replacement (hope for the best but plan for worst)
Let the truck idle and see if you can see any little bubbles coming from the t-stat gasket. Just had that happen to me last summer. I changed the gasket, t-stat, pump, and serpentine belt (good thing to do if your upper hose goes though the belt no around). No problems since, easy job just a bit of time.
I'm the one in the picture aside the words "Powerstoke Problem Pioneer" in the Encyclopedia Britannica... Buck$Zooka on my shoulder.
Funny! I always figured there were $20's or even $50's shooting outta there! Must a been a minor repair on that problem, lol.
Thanks fellas, will start diagnosing this morning. I am so frustrated because I was going to replace the water pump with the one that has the filter built in and didn't - went with the bypass - but now..... shoulda woulda coulda...
Does anyone think that installing the 203' t-stat probably pushed the old waterpump over the edge possibly. My girlfriend is going to give me tons of crap about this because she didn't notice any difference - nor did I but I convinced her it was better for the truck .
OK, troubleshooting completed and you guys are correct, it is the waterpump. I can see a wet path running directly out from the center of the wp pulley down and around the bottom pulley housing. Now the big question.....
I had installed a coolant bypass from dieselsite -- is the better choice to install the International T444E waterpump OR just do a new aluminum wp, remanufactured, is there an OEM cast iron version? What are your thoughts?
I know having two coolant filters is overkill, but I would then sell the other one from dieselsite if I get the t444e wp.
Thank you in advance and if you know of a good wp replacement writeup let me know - I still need to do the search.
My vote is just keep the Dieselsite bypass setup, because if you buy a water pump from any of the big chains, they usually have "lifetime warranties" on them. I know, you don't want to think about changing the water pump again, but HIS Excursion has had 4 water pumps in 222,000 miles, while HERS is still on the OEM pump with 125,000 miles. You just never know.
No, the 203* thermostat did not break your pump. That's silly. Even with a stock thermo your coolant gets above 203* in the summer...it's just that Bob's doesn't open until 203* which is more for cooler weather, warming up engine faster, etc.
By the way, don't disregard Bob's suggestion on replacing your new bypass system's filter once every month or 1,000 miles (whichever comes first) for the first 3 filters. I thought there was NO WAY there could be anything in my engine coolant after the huge flush I did before installing it...but I figured I would replace the first filter "just to test it." I cut that filter open with only 1 month and 750 miles of driving...and it was full of silicate. Unbelievable. Made a believer out of me. And I think it's why HERS is still going strong (knock on wood) with the OEM pump.
I am glad to hear that because I really just wanted someone else to tell me to leave the bypass . I am shopping around for a waterpump - non-reman and looking at youtube videos on how to get the clutch fan off, etc... that seems like the hardest part.
since the coolant sprayed out and got the front of the engine all gross with brown residue, etc.. is there anything I should be concerned about with pressure washing from the bottom up (after I remove the fan), I don't hold it at full pressure, more of a warm water dusting but I cover the alternator, etc... It just looks bad and although people don't see it I hate knowing how bad it looks.... crazy....
I spray my engine down regularly with a garden hose. I've used a low to medium pressure pressure washer on the underside due to the abrasive road salt I encounter. You're safe, as long as your common sense is intact and you don't go ***** nilly spraying electrical system parts for long periods, etc.