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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Double Trouble!

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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #16  
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Can't seem to see the bubble test link, is it named something else? Would be awesome if you could link it for me :P
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #17  
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It's kind of buried in the "no start" checklist, post #17 is copied below. If you don't want to pull the fuses/relay, you can touch the large yellow/blue wire near the heater Box on passenger side fender to the + battery post and engine will turn over for test. The wire is in a plastic sleeve and there is a round "squeeze" type connector that pulls apart, pretty sturdy, and no tools needed. if you use the jumper to crank, Leave key off, you don't want the engine to start during this test.

From: luthrobediesel on FTE (see post #18 in link below)

Injector o-ring (or other failures) can cause a no-start condition. One easy check for injector problems:

Pull the fuse cover under steering wheel with a flat blade screw driver turn the screws 1/4 of a turn. Pull fuses 20 FICM, 40 Fuel pump, and 103 PCM. You might need a fuse puller or needle nose pliers. Be sure there is fuel above the standpipe. If you want pull fuse 40 last and use the fuel pump momentarily to fill the fuel filter housing. Then have someone crank while you watch for bubbles. Do not crank on it for more than 10 seconds max. This is the easiest way to determine mechanical condition of injectors. What happens is combustion gas will come through the pintle seat and into the fuel gallery in the head and up into the filter.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/81...in-a-6-0l.html
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #18  
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FYI, I run a dedicated 0-30 PSI Pressure Gauge on my 06 cooling system. After warm up it reads a steady 8 PSI
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 02:12 AM
  #19  
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DELEATE ME!!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 02:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Fal-308-Win
FYI, I run a dedicated 0-30 PSI Pressure Gauge on my 06 cooling system. After warm up it reads a steady 8 PSI

Bingo you have to test the PSI from Cold STart to warm then go WOT^^^^

I think you headgaskets are OK to if you ran that Test a Few Days

Your Volts are Low and Alternator sounds like its Killing the FICM Slowly I assume this is Likely the cause of Smoke

But also could be EGR Cooler or EGR Valve itself But the egr valve usually produces Black Smoke over white

The Alternator Needs addressed regaurdless because that's not enough to Run the truck and Fulley charge the Batteries
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 05:22 AM
  #21  
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The test was indeed done from Cold - Warm - WOT like mentioned, a few times for piece of mind.

There was an aftermarket amp, not plugged into anything but plugged into the battery. No idea if that's any correlation, but i re-did my battery test also and here's what i got afterwards.

OFF: 12.4v
KOEO:11.4v
After running around to get groceries and different things it was up to 13.8v

I know those are better, but not sure if it's good enough to keep my FICM alive

I would be doing the EGR delete, new oil cooler, coolant filter and all the goodies, but not having a garage and it being -21C this morning i think i can wait until atleast spring to do those.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:16 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Bingo you have to test the PSI from Cold STart to warm then go WOT^^^^

I think you headgaskets are OK to if you ran that Test a Few Days

Your Volts are Low and Alternator sounds like its Killing the FICM Slowly I assume this is Likely the cause of Smoke

But also could be EGR Cooler or EGR Valve itself But the egr valve usually produces Black Smoke over white

The Alternator Needs addressed regaurdless because that's not enough to Run the truck and Fulley charge the Batteries
X2 wait a minute I said that earier. X3.lol
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #23  
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Alternator.
Without the min 13.5 or above charging rate, these things don't run right, symptoms galore.
Same electrical symptoms as mine awhile back. Same state of charge on my batteries. Same manual readings of alt volts. Until I monitored voltage and figured out the alternator was toast. Smoke, codes and rough cold start gone.
I should add, programmed FICM with Gryphon during this same period.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #24  
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Your reading of 12.1 tell you that your batteries are only at 50% charge.
12.5 is 90%, 12.7 is 100%.
I didn't know that when trying to get mine running all the time, nor did I know it would kill the FICM. Luckily my swamps 58V survived the ordeal.
Interstated load tested fine at the time as well.

Just thought i'd add the state of charge as it plays a key in troubleshooting.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #25  
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Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.

No update on my white smoke, kept the pressure gauge on my coolant overflow line and highest it's gotten now is 8 which i guess is still normal?

Everyone tells me the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant, just regular diesel.. If i have a failed EGR cooler, would it smell or no?

The only thing it points to is EGR Delete/Oil cooler replacement though.. might have to suck it up and do it outside in the snow to avoid HG risk
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jmoen7
Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.

No update on my white smoke, kept the pressure gauge on my coolant overflow line and highest it's gotten now is 8 which i guess is still normal?

Everyone tells me the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant, just regular diesel.. If i have a failed EGR cooler, would it smell or no?

The only thing it points to is EGR Delete/Oil cooler replacement though.. might have to suck it up and do it outside in the snow to avoid HG risk
It would smell of ccolant. Did you pull your egr valve and see if it is wet?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #27  
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Are you sure its not condensation? It was -20 here this morning and my truck blew out whitish blue steam all day. And I mean alot. Just wondering if you have your cat deleted. I have mine gutted and that will cause more steam out the pipe. A few years back I blew an egr cooler and it started as a little smoke and turned into a bunch as in couldnt see for a couple blocks down the road. If it was coolant burning up it would stick around "steam" alot longer than regular emission. You wouldnt even be able to see through it in those temps. So going down the road does it dissipate or does it leave a trail like a train like a couple of blocks long?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jmoen7
Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.
Thanks for the update
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #29  
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Even though this is my first diesel, i can tell what would be condensation and what's just white smoke, rolling down the highway if i step on it, it will spit white smoke until you let off the fuel. Exhaust is still stock because it's in the midst of being safetied after some ball joint work.

I did pull my EGR valve twice now, both times has been dry and crusty inside.

Only good thing i can say so far is it started in -41C without being plugged in yesterday
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:26 PM
  #30  
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Did you take the cat off and look at it's insides?
 
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