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It's kind of buried in the "no start" checklist, post #17 is copied below. If you don't want to pull the fuses/relay, you can touch the large yellow/blue wire near the heater Box on passenger side fender to the + battery post and engine will turn over for test. The wire is in a plastic sleeve and there is a round "squeeze" type connector that pulls apart, pretty sturdy, and no tools needed. if you use the jumper to crank, Leave key off, you don't want the engine to start during this test.
From: luthrobediesel on FTE (see post #18 in link below)
Injector o-ring (or other failures) can cause a no-start condition. One easy check for injector problems:
Pull the fuse cover under steering wheel with a flat blade screw driver turn the screws 1/4 of a turn. Pull fuses 20 FICM, 40 Fuel pump, and 103 PCM. You might need a fuse puller or needle nose pliers. Be sure there is fuel above the standpipe. If you want pull fuse 40 last and use the fuel pump momentarily to fill the fuel filter housing. Then have someone crank while you watch for bubbles. Do not crank on it for more than 10 seconds max. This is the easiest way to determine mechanical condition of injectors. What happens is combustion gas will come through the pintle seat and into the fuel gallery in the head and up into the filter.
The test was indeed done from Cold - Warm - WOT like mentioned, a few times for piece of mind.
There was an aftermarket amp, not plugged into anything but plugged into the battery. No idea if that's any correlation, but i re-did my battery test also and here's what i got afterwards.
OFF: 12.4v
KOEO:11.4v
After running around to get groceries and different things it was up to 13.8v
I know those are better, but not sure if it's good enough to keep my FICM alive
I would be doing the EGR delete, new oil cooler, coolant filter and all the goodies, but not having a garage and it being -21C this morning i think i can wait until atleast spring to do those.
Alternator.
Without the min 13.5 or above charging rate, these things don't run right, symptoms galore.
Same electrical symptoms as mine awhile back. Same state of charge on my batteries. Same manual readings of alt volts. Until I monitored voltage and figured out the alternator was toast. Smoke, codes and rough cold start gone.
I should add, programmed FICM with Gryphon during this same period.
Your reading of 12.1 tell you that your batteries are only at 50% charge.
12.5 is 90%, 12.7 is 100%.
I didn't know that when trying to get mine running all the time, nor did I know it would kill the FICM. Luckily my swamps 58V survived the ordeal.
Interstated load tested fine at the time as well.
Just thought i'd add the state of charge as it plays a key in troubleshooting.
Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.
No update on my white smoke, kept the pressure gauge on my coolant overflow line and highest it's gotten now is 8 which i guess is still normal?
Everyone tells me the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant, just regular diesel.. If i have a failed EGR cooler, would it smell or no?
The only thing it points to is EGR Delete/Oil cooler replacement though.. might have to suck it up and do it outside in the snow to avoid HG risk
Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.
No update on my white smoke, kept the pressure gauge on my coolant overflow line and highest it's gotten now is 8 which i guess is still normal?
Everyone tells me the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant, just regular diesel.. If i have a failed EGR cooler, would it smell or no?
The only thing it points to is EGR Delete/Oil cooler replacement though.. might have to suck it up and do it outside in the snow to avoid HG risk
It would smell of ccolant. Did you pull your egr valve and see if it is wet?
Are you sure its not condensation? It was -20 here this morning and my truck blew out whitish blue steam all day. And I mean alot. Just wondering if you have your cat deleted. I have mine gutted and that will cause more steam out the pipe. A few years back I blew an egr cooler and it started as a little smoke and turned into a bunch as in couldnt see for a couple blocks down the road. If it was coolant burning up it would stick around "steam" alot longer than regular emission. You wouldnt even be able to see through it in those temps. So going down the road does it dissipate or does it leave a trail like a train like a couple of blocks long?
Posting an update here: Ever since i unplugged the aftermarket AMP located in the backseat from PO (It wasn't plugged into a speaker, just had live wire sitting under the seat) the battery level has been sitting at 12.6 OFF, 11.5 cranking and charging at 13.8-14 so my issue there is gone.
Even though this is my first diesel, i can tell what would be condensation and what's just white smoke, rolling down the highway if i step on it, it will spit white smoke until you let off the fuel. Exhaust is still stock because it's in the midst of being safetied after some ball joint work.
I did pull my EGR valve twice now, both times has been dry and crusty inside.
Only good thing i can say so far is it started in -41C without being plugged in yesterday
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