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EGT Sensor Failure

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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 07:51 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Lastwagen
Is this right?

If a sensor fails, the engine will shut down and not restart. Then if I replace the failed sensor, reset the code with my CTS, it will restart?

This is really all that matters to me. I don't want to bypass anything, just get it going and not look back.
That is how it works as long as it was a failed sensor.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 07:52 AM
  #47  
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From: Spring Hill, SC
Originally Posted by Lastwagen
Is this right?

If a sensor fails, the engine will shut down and not restart. Then if I replace the failed sensor, reset the code with my CTS, it will restart?

This is really all that matters to me. I don't want to bypass anything, just get it going and not look back.
Yes, and as others have posted. Remove all four sensors now and apply high temperature anti-seize to the threads. This will make removal painless in the future.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #48  
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Had a failure Saturday. Long story condensed:

Decided to take the 11' over the 13' because of the truck shell. 850 miles from home the check engine light comes on. Checked the gauge mode temps were OK and truck was running great. Decided to continue to drive(only 4 miles from a destination) as we pulled into the parking lot the motor shuts down in safety mode. Went to start and would not turn over. So, stranded in FL, called Ford Roadside for a tow to nearest FORD dealer. Today is now Monday when they open. Drove a rental in to the department and gave rundown of events. They were able to get me up and running in 7 hours, on a Monday. EGT sensor went out and they were able to replace it, also filled the coolant reservoir and replaced the particualte filter.

FIRST time I have been let down by a FORD diesel. Had an 04', went to Durajunk from 09-late 10, new ford 11 350 Lariat 6.7 and love it. Bought a 2013 350 Lariat 6.7 last xmas. Really concerned about this EGT problem and the engine shutdown, scary *** hell and never know when the others will fail and where. Now I can get my family back home after a 3 day layover.

My other concern is the coolant reservoir was empty on Saturday when I popped the hood. Wouldnt this suggest an EGR problem?
 

Last edited by The Provider; Dec 30, 2013 at 07:43 PM. Reason: incorrect spelling
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 12:27 AM
  #49  
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Most likely a faulty radiator
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 06:05 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by McFarlandkm
Most likely a faulty radiator
I am assuming the radiator has a separate chamber for this secondary reservoir. Engine temp was normal, coolant was full.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 08:25 AM
  #51  
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Keep us posted on the remedy. With all of the known radiator failures in past models I really had hoped this issue was corrected. I really don't think the radiator is something you skimp on. For the additional cost associated with this 6.7 motor, the damn thing should be the best money can buy!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Traveling Man
Yes, and as others have posted. Remove all four sensors now and apply high temperature anti-seize to the threads. This will make removal painless in the future.
I've done the anti-seize compound.

Also... my EGT sensor emergency kit is in the truck

1 - CTS or other OBDII reader to know which sensor has failed (sensors are numbered 1-4 front to back)
1 - spare sensor (2 if you feel unlucky)
1 - 13mm box end wrench (flare wrench would be better)
1 - pair leather gloves (or wait for an hour till the torpedo cools down)
1 - denim jacket (or wait for an hour till it cools enough to reach above to unplug/plug the connectors)
1 - tarp to lay on (always in the box anyway)
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #53  
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From: Spring Hill, SC
Originally Posted by Lastwagen
I've done the anti-seize compound.

Also... my EGT sensor emergency kit is in the truck

1 - CTS or other OBDII reader to know which sensor has failed (sensors are numbered 1-4 front to back)
1 - spare sensor (2 if you feel unlucky)
1 - 13mm box end wrench (flare wrench would be better)
1 - pair leather gloves (or wait for an hour till the torpedo cools down)
1 - denim jacket (or wait for an hour till it cools enough to reach above to unplug/plug the connectors)
1 - tarp to lay on (always in the box anyway)
I was thinking the same thing about the flare wrench. It would be necessary to cut the Electrical connection in order to use the box end of the 13MM. I think I will spring for a Flare wrench in 13MM, oh and don't forget a little lubricant of your choice.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 07:58 AM
  #54  
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Maybe Ford designed the sensors for early failure in order to sell more of them. As it appears that a lot of owners are buying a spare one $$$$$$$.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #55  
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Helpful tip

Originally Posted by Traveling Man
Yes, and as others have posted. Remove all four sensors now and apply high temperature anti-seize to the threads. This will make removal painless in the future.
I did this also (anti-seize). Although pulling the sensors was easy enough, getting to the connectors was much more difficult. They are tucked into the frame rail. A tip that some may find helpful is to identify which plastic push anchor holds the cable to the frame and push it from the outside in. The cable has a loop and will have enough slack to drop below the frame. You can then unplug the sensor from below the frame without trying to do it inside between the frame and DEF. After you make the new connection it's easier to reach back in and push the anchor back into the hole. The last picture below shows the anchor I'm talking about.

-Bobby



 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:29 PM
  #56  
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Thanks guys looks like some good info. More things to add to the to do list.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:20 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Bobbykjl
I did this also (anti-seize). Although pulling the sensors was easy enough, getting to the connectors was much more difficult. They are tucked into the frame rail. A tip that some may find helpful is to identify which plastic push anchor holds the cable to the frame and push it from the outside in. The cable has a loop and will have enough slack to drop below the frame. You can then unplug the sensor from below the frame without trying to do it inside between the frame and DEF. After you make the new connection it's easier to reach back in and push the anchor back into the hole. The last picture below shows the anchor I'm talking about.

-Bobby



Good idea. Sometimes a simple trick like this can save a lot of time, or worse a broken wire/connector which could be just as bad as the failed sensor.
 
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