mechanical support please...

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Dec 29, 2013 | 11:08 PM

#31

dontbthisguy

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that should do. Thank you. And it orrigionally had the 5.0. But the person who owned it before me tossed a 351 from an early 90's f250

Dec 29, 2013 | 11:09 PM

#32

dontbthisguy

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found that out the hard way when i needed a pully and belt and the part number was off that truck.

Dec 29, 2013 | 11:25 PM

#33

gsuch77

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Glad to help keep posting on this project I'm hoping this goes well for you. And i bet finding out that way was quite funny

Dec 29, 2013 | 11:30 PM

#34

86fsbronco

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You can also find the parts you need at at broncograveyard.com they have everything and if you inter the coupon code (bronco) you get 10% off if you order parts before January 1st

Dec 29, 2013 | 11:45 PM

#35

dontbthisguy

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thank you all. I will keep you guys posted.

Dec 30, 2013 | 07:14 AM

#36

88rustyred

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Double/cardon u-joint, I think is what th joint in front of driveshaft is called. Bronco G/Y has th whole piece for about $240?. I got th ball stud half for my 86Bronc from Napa for $95

Dec 30, 2013 | 03:33 PM

#37

gatorfor88

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From: Panama City

Double cardon is the correct term. I bought a new driveshaft for my 78 because it was only $220. That was cheaper than buying the 3 spicer u-joints, the bearing in the double cardon joint, a new yoke on the end that was torn up when u-joint went out, and getting it rebalanced locally. Plus the peace of mind of not knowing how long the stub shaft and slip yoke would last. So now I have a new rear driveshaft with all new spicer components that should last a looooooong time with proper maintenance.

Jan 1, 2014 | 05:04 PM

#38

dontbthisguy

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quick question, when replacing the driver side window motor and arm, how do I get the arm off the window itself? Do I have to drop it all the way?

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Jan 1, 2014 | 05:06 PM

#39

dontbthisguy

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and with a new driveshaft, do I need to line it up any specific way? Or just throw it in?

Jan 1, 2014 | 05:52 PM

#40

gatorfor88

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From: Panama City

There are only 2 ways a driveshaft will bolt up. Both are correct

Jan 1, 2014 | 06:37 PM

#41

gsuch77

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I agree with Gatorfor88 on drive shafts question. Just make sure they are the right way lol. As for the window issue I have only done that once. And you can either remove vent window frame and glass and pull out the seals which was how I accomplished the goal but since you're replacing motor and arm you might be able to get the glass separated from the arm by getting the glass down low enough to slide the arm out of the channel on the bottom of the glass once you separate the window motor from the door but I would almost start another thread for that topic

Jan 1, 2014 | 06:40 PM

#42

dontbthisguy

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thanks. I was playing with it and that's what I thought. Won't dig into it until tomorrow. But thank you.

Jan 1, 2014 | 09:18 PM

#43

88LX5.0H

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gsuch77

its not horrible but its not fun either becasue you have to deal with the exhaust and clearance between floor pan and top of t-case lol mine broke on me and left the t-case sitting in the skid plat

What you're talking about is the tail housing of the transmission (also could be known as 4wd extension housing). It's not there to protect the transmission. It's sole purpose is to connect the transmission to the transfer case plain and simple. It also would have nothing to do with his rear drive shaft.

Jan 1, 2014 | 10:15 PM

#44

gsuch77

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OK thanks for the up date the last trans guy i talked to must have been mistaken. It's better to have a true definition of parts and functions.

Jan 3, 2014 | 10:47 AM

#45

dontbthisguy

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ok. So I ruled out the rear diff for the vibration and pop. I believe ot is coming from the front end now. Could it be a front axel u joint or a wheel bearing? Not sure where to start now.