IPR removal write up
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
IPR removal write up
Anyone have or know where to find a write up for removing the IPR? That thing is buried pretty deep in there. The last time mine went bad, I must have had a mechanic change it out, because I don't ever remember getting in there and pulling mine out. It looks like he HPOP needs to come out to me, or at least the lines going to it need to be removed. 
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Georgia
Check the springerpop page... there should be a link in the tech folder.
Its actually pretty easy Jason.
You need the deepest 29mm socket you can get your hands on.
Some guys weld a tab on the ratchet side but i have had excellent success using my craftsman 1/2" to get them out.
All i remove is the connector on the back of the hpop reservoir and the ipr bail clip connector.
Then remove the tin nut... slide the selonoid off... and get the socket on...
Remember to turn it the right way.
Less than a quart of oil usually spills out once its removed.
Make dang sure the little pin goes back in the same way it came out if your breaking it all the way down.
Its actually pretty easy Jason.
You need the deepest 29mm socket you can get your hands on.
Some guys weld a tab on the ratchet side but i have had excellent success using my craftsman 1/2" to get them out.
All i remove is the connector on the back of the hpop reservoir and the ipr bail clip connector.
Then remove the tin nut... slide the selonoid off... and get the socket on...
Remember to turn it the right way.
Less than a quart of oil usually spills out once its removed.
Make dang sure the little pin goes back in the same way it came out if your breaking it all the way down.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
Thanks Chris. I have a new IPR that I am replacing it with, so I am not necesarrily concerned too much about the one coming out, at least not the orientation of it. I am not sure at this point, what little pin you are refering to, but I am sure I will find out. 
Elder User
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Don't worry about the pin if you are just replacing the ipr with a new one.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
^^^^ What he said.
It's one of the internal parts you would come across if you were doing a complete IPR tear down and cleaning as a potential means of avoiding the expense of a new unit.
It's one of the internal parts you would come across if you were doing a complete IPR tear down and cleaning as a potential means of avoiding the expense of a new unit.
More Turbo
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From: Eads, TN
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
The part about welding a bar on a socket is just an option. The other option is to just buy a deep enough socket. Some have gotten theirs from Sears. I got mine from NAPA. I got a SAE size, not metric, but it all works the same.
Either get a socket deep enough you can use it with a ratchet, or weld a bar on a shallower socket and fight it 1/8 of a turn at a time.
It's actually harder to see than it is to swap out. No need to remove anything to get it out other than the tin nut, electrical connector, and solenoid.
Either get a socket deep enough you can use it with a ratchet, or weld a bar on a shallower socket and fight it 1/8 of a turn at a time.
It's actually harder to see than it is to swap out. No need to remove anything to get it out other than the tin nut, electrical connector, and solenoid.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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ya Jay...what milehi said. i was already waste deepon the motor and with a new IRP on the shelf, i figured, why not...Not only sis it take 10min, i was stoked to find a Craftman 1-1/8 deeeep socket that fit WITH rachet attached.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
Thanks guys. I am all set to tackle this this morning, I removed the connector, tin nut and the solenoid off the shaft yesterday while I was home from work on my break. I did not have enough time to get to the store to get a socket big enough before I had to get back to work. I am headed to the store this morning to get the socket. My next question is, should I put some loc-tite on the threads or is that unnecessary? If it is recommended, I assume red will work just fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Thanks guys. I am all set to tackle this this morning, I removed the connector, tin nut and the solenoid off the shaft yesterday while I was home from work on my break. I did not have enough time to get to the store to get a socket big enough before I had to get back to work. I am headed to the store this morning to get the socket. My next question is, should I put some loc-tite on the threads or is that unnecessary? If it is recommended, I assume red will work just fine.
Buddy, it ain't holding the engine together.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
I know that, but I replaced O-rings on the HPOP lines years ago and did not loc-tite them and 2 weeks later, the leak was back, and better than ever so I had to buy new ones and do it all over again. I already noticed yesterday I have some oil or fuel in the valley, I don't want to cause another leak or make more work for if I can do it right the first time.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 582
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From: Eads, TN
Jason, I've never heard of anyone using loc-tite on the IPR. I would think the o-ring would be sufficient.
Somewhere I read where someone cleaned the threads on the HPOP with a q tip and break cleaner before installing their IPR, but isn't that going a little overboard?
Somewhere I read where someone cleaned the threads on the HPOP with a q tip and break cleaner before installing their IPR, but isn't that going a little overboard?