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IPR removal write up

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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #16  
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Yeah, probably a little over the top with the Qtip for sure. i will just put her in sans loc-tite and go from there. Thanks guys.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 09:17 AM
  #17  
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Jason, how did you decide to replace rather than reseal the IPR? I'm coming up on T500 install and was thinking of resealing the IPR while in there.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #18  
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Jason, all the instructions I've seen recommend using loctite on the HPOP line fittings, but none mention it regarding the IPR. The one IPR I changed over two years ago did not get any loctite and is still not leaking.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #19  
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Jason, the reason I decided to go with replacing rather than resealing, is twofold. One was expediency, I knew I could get the new IPR sensor faster than O-ring kit. Second, I wasn't familiar with what all was involved in rebuilding the IPR vs. just replacing it.

Thank you Pete. I just installed the new IPR and did not use loc-tite so here's hoping all is good.

Now I have more questions. I watched the video posted in this thread and the part where the guy uses the little soap pump to get the oil out of the HPOP resevoir seemed like a good idea to me. I have some oil or fuel, not sure which, in the valley right now, but the idea of an additional quart of it all over the top and leaking down everywhere did not appeal to me, so I procured a hand soap pump, rinsed it really well and went out to the truck to pump it out.



When I got in there and started pumping, nothing but air came out...

So I pulled the pump out and there was no oil on the tube of the pump except for a little residue it came into contact with on the way into the resevoir.




So it answered one question as to why the truck won't start, there is no oil in the HPOP to build pressure to run the injectors. But is it because the bad IPR is allowing pressure to leak somewhere, or is there something else in play here? I put the new IPR and the new ICP on and cranked the engine a couple of times for 20-30 seconds and still no start. Do I need to keep cranking, or do I have a LPOP and or a HPOP problem going on now?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #20  
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Well over a minute of crank time, from several different 15-20 second intervals, still no start. Drained the batteries a little bit, so I have a charger on them right now. Checked the HPOP reservoir and it has oil 3/4 of an inch from the top. That's not the issue.

I guess I have to hook up AE and see what's going on now...
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #21  
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IIRC, there is a ball check valve in the bottom of the reservoir, but is supposedly is rarely the problem.

Here are a few threads I found in a quick search. Some are from other forums, so please forgive me if they should not be here... just trying to pull out all the stops to help Jason. Also, I didn't read through each, so they may not all be very helpful.

Hpop reservoir drains overnite

what can cause a 7.3 hpop reservoir to keep losing its oil?

Help! My HPOP Reservoir keeps draining

Question HPOP Reservoir EMPTY! Is this something wrong?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:23 AM
  #22  
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Interesting stuff Pete. Thanks for doing the leg work on that. Man, I hope none of that crap is my issue. When I am cranking, the idiot gauge on the dash for oil pressure does come up into the normal range. I am charging the batteries and the laptop so I can get AE up and see whats going on.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #23  
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Sticking IPR is my guess as to why the HPOP reservior had drained down. See what your ICP is doing while cranking. You did plug the IPR back in, right?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #24  
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Yes, I plugged it back in. I cranked it for several 20-30 second cranks and it didn't start. With AE hooked up now my IPR won't get above 400 that I saw and the duty cycle climber to at least 60% that I saw. I checked the HPOp after cranking and the oil was 3/4 of an inch below the top, but the truck still would not fire. I put the battery charger on.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Having a new IPR, I'd say you just need to crank it a bit more to purge the air.
I had a hot no start/extended crank problem recently. I monitored the ICP & Duty Cycle and was only building to ~ 260 psi with climbing duty cycle to >60%. I discovered a loose IPR coil within the metal shell and possible open circuit when hot. I changed out the coil only; as the IPR responded normally once it started. I did, however, notice some slight dips in ICP when coming out of the throttle and at idle. I replaced the coil with a known "good one" (ohm'd the same as a new Alliant Power IPR) taken from my OEM IPR. So far, so good. Starts are much easier and ICP more responsive in relation to duty cycle.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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Well, Chris and Roland, you both have me hopeful that after charging overnight, I may not have worse case scenario like I was thinking. I will try cranking it over in the am, and let y'all know what happens, of course.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #27  
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Check ur oil level in crankcase. Sounds lame but have read same s
cenerio and that was outcome
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #28  
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Yeah, I had already done that timmy, it was right in the middle of the cross hatch. Put battery charger on last night but didn't notice the plug was loose.

So went out and cranked a few times anyway just hoping to purge some air. Then let it sit for 45 minutes with the charger on and actually plugged in. Cranked a few more times for 15-20 seconds. Then hooked AE up just to see what the ICP and duty cycle were. ICP never got above 400, duty cycle was way up, at least 60% maybe higher, and of course battery voltage was low, eventually ran down around 9 while cranking. I rechecked all the connections that I removed, ICP, IPR an fuel bowl connectors all look good. Checked he HPOP reservoir after cranking and it was full. I meant to check it before cranking, after sitting overnight but didn't.

I am going to let the batteries really charge for a few hours and have another go, but I am getting a little nervous and doubtful at this point, that it is just needing air purged. Why won't this thing build up ICP?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
Yeah, I had already done that timmy, it was right in the middle of the cross hatch. Put battery charger on last night but didn't notice the plug was loose.

So went out and cranked a few times anyway just hoping to purge some air. Then let it sit for 45 minutes with the charger on and actually plugged in. Cranked a few more times for 15-20 seconds. Then hooked AE up just to see what the ICP and duty cycle were. ICP never got above 400, duty cycle was way up, at least 60% maybe higher, and of course battery voltage was low, eventually ran down around 9 while cranking. I rechecked all the connections that I removed, ICP, IPR an fuel bowl connectors all look good. Checked he HPOP reservoir after cranking and it was full. I meant to check it before cranking, after sitting overnight but didn't.

I am going to let the batteries really charge for a few hours and have another go, but I am getting a little nervous and doubtful at this point, that it is just needing air purged. Why won't this thing build up ICP?
Jason try unplugging the icp and try to start it. I had issues trying to get my truck fired up after I installed T500 and I called Joey and he said sometimes air gets trapped under the icp in the rail. Or pull the icp and make sure the rail is full also. But first try unplugging the icp and crank it about 4 or 5 times at 30 seconds. See what it does. Good luck
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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I will try that tomorrow, but I am thinking this is going to be an expedition into LPOP and HPOP R&R...not looking forward to what this is going to do to my wallet. Bad time of year for this.
 
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