When I had mine it started having this problem. I turned up the IP just a smidge and vola it started right up every time

 

If i remember right the PO said he did return lines, i dont remember what they looked like off the top of my head. Any recommendations on brand of injectors? are they as picky as the GPs, or are other brands than motorcraft acceptable?

 

Tom, how many miles are you getting out of injectors and IP?

Roy

 

guys,
about the glow plug cycle time.once the light goes out.start your trucks.the extra cycling on/off is "after glow" meaning "after" as in after you start the engine.these few extra cycles are to help keep the engine running smooth and strong while reducing white smoke on start up.
if you find your truck doesn't like to start until it's done the light with all those extra clicking/swinging of the volt meter for a while,then it's a tell tale sign your truck isn't up to par and if let go,will only get worse until old besty just wont start anymore.

blue,
your first mistake was battery size.you want a minimum of 850CCA not 750,and the battery cables themselves if oem are more than likely shot as well,not just the terminals you replaced.
you want her turning over real strong and fast before worrying about much else.
this is your foundation to build on for an easy starting cold diesel engine.
if your unsure of miles,a compression test will help you.if she's down,then you'll just know not to expect what she should be ever again until a reman.
next its running the complete 87+ diagnostic test of the complete system as noted in Niles gp 101 thread.
from there,it's fresh medium ware items (ip/injectors) and set the timing along with making sure the fuel filter is full in the morning of course.id never run an idi without an e-pump.i knew this back when i started reading about the engines to not waste my time with such things.it's been e-pump before idi truck hits the road.it's just common sense to install a self priming fuel system on such a notorious fuel leaking engine if you want to cut out needless downtime and stinky fuel related issues road side or job site imho.kick that ones ars before it ever kicks yours.

 

Doesnt sound air realated to me, i would say GPs and or injectors.

 

And im an idiot. they are 950 cca batteries, group 31 type. I tested resistance in my cables after changing ends, and i was at 1 ohm or less on all of them, they are fine. its not the original pos cable at least, there was an old one hanging around still bolted to the engine that was just unhooked from the starter and cut at the batt. The truck turns over plenty fast, just doesnt want to pop.
What lift pump would you recommend? The PO replaced the block side one thats on it, it looked brand new when i bought the truck last spring.

 

i push the issue, usually between 150 and 175k miles on injectors, and 125-160k on the pumps.
i need new injectors again, if i let it idle for more than around 10 minutes i will start loosing injectors. then i have to run it hard for them to come back.
the pumps are weird. the factory pump lost it governor and started over revving at around 125k. i realized something was wrong when it started reving to 3800 without shutting down. second pump i got close to 150 k out of before it started dying letting off the throttle. third pump just stopped working at 160k went out to go to work one day and it would not start, no fuel to injectors. current pump has around 72k on it. current injectors have 170k miles on them.
injector were Delphi "BB" code. i have been hearing pretty good reviews about the "G" code turbo injectors though, and am thinking of trying them for the next set.

 

I would bet money my injectors and IP are both OEM, great. Im assuming these are parts you dont just pick up at the local oreillys?

 

nope. i have been using a local re-builder to do my pumps and to get the injectors, but he sold out to fleet source a few years ago, and i heard the quality took a real nosedive.
that is part of the reason i have been putting it off, the other reason is it is now a backup snow plow truck, and only sees 500 to 1000 miles per year.

 

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...2368&ppt=C0024

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...2464&ppt=C0024

Here you go I don't know the kind of quality but yes you can get them

 

Just my 2 cents, but the fuel components of an IDI can take a lot more miles then the common thought. My '84 when I sold it had just rolled 300K. It had the IP replaced @ just before 200K and the injectors and return lines had never been touched. At 300K she started and ran like a new truck. Just a slight haze for smoke and ran quiet for a diesel. The truck hadn't been abused, but it worked hard it's first 300K, the original owner used it to haul a goose neck horse trailer, (with horses of course), between Northern California and the Colorado mountains regularly. I used it to haul my projects and my travel trailer all over the West Coast and as a daily driver for many years.

Plenty of power and I averaged 15mpg most of the years I owned it. Mileage dropped down to 14mpg the last year, so maybe the injectors were finally showing some age.

 

No No NO, if the only variable is the temperature of the engine, it is not air intrusion, or injectors or IP pump. It is the only thing that lites off the engine, glow plugs. you must confirm that all gp's are getting power during cycling of the controller,you must test voltage at each gp, one bad connection on gp system can be the problem. controllers fail, $90 will replace controller and solenoid, check all connections including the fuseable link that is in the wire that hooks to the long bolt on the start relay, this is a binding post for the large loads of your truck, read carefully the sticky"s on GP's (posts at top of page) good luck.

 

I have been told you should never spray starting fluid in these engines. As for starting mine had injectors done last year and I have started it up after it sat for 3 days in a dark un heated drafty garage with temps of less than 20 during the day and it fired right up with one gp cycle and no heater.

 

If you spray starting fluid with warm glow plugs then yes you have issues.

I kind of have this issue, however my gp system is messed up. The po put a toggle, it takes a couple of minutes before the light comes on, and only one gp heats up.
Spins fast and everything, just no start.

If I plug it in, or it's still warm, cranks right up!

 

starting fluid without glow plugs is no problem. if the glow plugs are working and hot, the starting fluid can ignite on contact with the glow plug causing severe damage.
so if you want to use starting fluid you must first disable the glow plugs.