Plug wires bad?
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Plug wires bad?
Ok guys been a while, I finally got all my issues settled on my '51 flatty V8... Well sorta.
Went down the street yesterday for the first time in 5 years. But it's rough. While checking the timing I noticed the light would stop strobing for a moment then start again.
I rechecked all my dizzy components, all seem fine and working properly. So then I decided to take the timing light and attach to all the plug wires to see if it was isolated or a common issue. It's common to all 8 but some seemed better than others, #5 didn't produce a strobe at all.
Now with that I will also add that I personally assembled these plug wires about 7 years ago (coincidentally that's when the problems started). Could they be causing this bad connection?
Thanks for all the help as always.
Went down the street yesterday for the first time in 5 years. But it's rough. While checking the timing I noticed the light would stop strobing for a moment then start again.
I rechecked all my dizzy components, all seem fine and working properly. So then I decided to take the timing light and attach to all the plug wires to see if it was isolated or a common issue. It's common to all 8 but some seemed better than others, #5 didn't produce a strobe at all.
Now with that I will also add that I personally assembled these plug wires about 7 years ago (coincidentally that's when the problems started). Could they be causing this bad connection?
Thanks for all the help as always.
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I want a set of pre-made wires for it but didn't want to spend the extra money just yet if it wasn't absolutely necessary.
I just removed a couple of the wires from the d cap, green corrosion and the ends were not crimped properly. I really hope this is my last ignition component haha bc Im ready to start looking for a shiny new radiator!
I just removed a couple of the wires from the d cap, green corrosion and the ends were not crimped properly. I really hope this is my last ignition component haha bc Im ready to start looking for a shiny new radiator!
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Kentucky
It sounds suspiciously like the plug wires to me.
Are these the solid core (metal) or fiber wires? If they're solid core, I would carefully take the ends off, clean them, then reinstall them. If that corrects the problem I would still replace them. Once the corrosion starts it can "crawl" up the wire inside the insulation and cause the same problem later.
There's nothing wrong with the do-it-yourself custom wires. As long as you take your time and use the right crimping tool. I've done it in a pinch (no pun in 10 did) with a pair of pliers, but it's no permanent substitute for the crimping tool. That's my opinion anyway.
Are these the solid core (metal) or fiber wires? If they're solid core, I would carefully take the ends off, clean them, then reinstall them. If that corrects the problem I would still replace them. Once the corrosion starts it can "crawl" up the wire inside the insulation and cause the same problem later.
There's nothing wrong with the do-it-yourself custom wires. As long as you take your time and use the right crimping tool. I've done it in a pinch (no pun in 10 did) with a pair of pliers, but it's no permanent substitute for the crimping tool. That's my opinion anyway.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I'd be trying to figure out how moisture got in there first. Have you been pressure washing it a lot? Even crappy boots should keep out ambient moisture pretty well.
A caution on pre-made wires. Make sure they are made such that you can get them thru the wire loom pieces on the intake manifold. Whether you have the "cloverleaf" type or the round barrel type loom, you can't get them thru with a boot on both ends. So one end (usually the straight-terminal dizzy end) needs to come without a boot on it. Some "made to fit" kits are the right length and style of boots but need to be disassembled to put them thru the looms. I knocked off half the terminals getting the boots off such a set, I think it was from AZ. I also would not buy the original type with no rubber boot at the plugs, I don't care how "right" that is, it's a real PITA working on a running engine with those!!
A caution on pre-made wires. Make sure they are made such that you can get them thru the wire loom pieces on the intake manifold. Whether you have the "cloverleaf" type or the round barrel type loom, you can't get them thru with a boot on both ends. So one end (usually the straight-terminal dizzy end) needs to come without a boot on it. Some "made to fit" kits are the right length and style of boots but need to be disassembled to put them thru the looms. I knocked off half the terminals getting the boots off such a set, I think it was from AZ. I also would not buy the original type with no rubber boot at the plugs, I don't care how "right" that is, it's a real PITA working on a running engine with those!!
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Yorkville Indiana
Auto Zone and good in the same sentence.
I havent bought any electrical item from Auto Zone that was worth carrying out the door. Spend your money on qualty wires such as Sorensen they may cost a little more but you wont be wasting your cash buying the same item twice.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
With .025" plug gaps you don't need 8mm silicone wires on a flathead. I doubt secondary voltage ever gets over 10kV.
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I've got my plugs at .030", those were the specs I found. Went by napa to see if they had any prepared wires but they do not.
I don't have the original looms so they won't be a factor and since I'm going to have to order them either way (universal or premade) I'll just get a better set.
Any recommendations? It's a 12V conversion, all stock set up.
I don't have the original looms so they won't be a factor and since I'm going to have to order them either way (universal or premade) I'll just get a better set.
Any recommendations? It's a 12V conversion, all stock set up.
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Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
They are actually made in USA by MSD I believe. Can't remember the brand name though...
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I may just go with a set of partially assembled wires from napa. O'riely's has some that are about $25... But I've forgotten the name of those as I type.
Napa usually has better parts, or so it seems. Plus I've got a good set of crimpers here waiting.
Unless someone tells me a better route, that's not super fancy. We want good parts, but not the show quality, high performance level cost.
Napa usually has better parts, or so it seems. Plus I've got a good set of crimpers here waiting.
Unless someone tells me a better route, that's not super fancy. We want good parts, but not the show quality, high performance level cost.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Rimrock AZ
What they probably sell is spiral wound (most common type of wire) which will be fine. You could use solid core but, they will interfere with any electronics or radios in the truck with no real performance advantage for you, usually only used in racing and specialty applications.
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Yeah that's what I have is the spiral wound. I think that's what I'll do. My dad wanted me to use stainless but the cost and, like you said, the interference I don't think it's right for me at this time... Maybe later after I rebuild it.
Thanks for alley help and advice. I'll update after I get them installed. Hopefully w a 45 mph video!
Thanks for alley help and advice. I'll update after I get them installed. Hopefully w a 45 mph video!
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