Is there really an advantage of paying double or more for spark plug wires when I can get a set of Motorcraft wires for $21.99?

I'm looking to replace mine, two of my 10 year old wires have rust in the connectors at the cap.

 

I have had good luck with the Autolite brand wires, I've been using them for years. If I was going to buy an expensive set of wires they would be MSD.

 

The diff is in the resistance of the wires. More expensive wires have less resistance therefore more voltage hits the plugs. Accel makes a really good midrange wire. I prefer my msd 8.5mm myself. But at $80 a set some say they ain't worth it.

 

i've had good luck with these so far, from advanced auto parts
Advance Auto Parts: Spark Plug Wire Set by Xact - Part 2971
They are 8mm, resistor core also...same as MSD / Accel

for race wires i like Taylor, they can be has for $60-$200 / set

 

i may be on the market for new wires as well. where did you see the prices for those motorcraft ones?


and personally, motorcraft being a ford brand, the wires are mostly likely OEM----"ish at worst" and I would think they'd be fine. I think you'd only see a real performance difference if you've modified other things.

 

I got the prices from Autozone:

Duralast/Wireset (4152) | Wireset | 1982 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders F 5.0L 2BL | AutoZone.com

Edit: Wow, i'm blind. That says Duralast, not Motorcraft.

 

I run the Motorcraft ones on my Mustang.I like them.

 

Those don't look like Motorcraft wires to me, Chief.

 

Yeah, i've been looking at and reading about plug wires for two days and I just realized that about five minutes ago.

 

There is a big perceived brand difference between Duralast and Motorcraft. I'm not sure there is a functional difference, but I'd rather my wires be stamped with Motorcraft given the option.

Still, for wires on a 24 y/o truck, $85 "racing" wires seem like overkill to me. I'd prefer a happy medium.

 

Autozone wires are JUNK. Stay away from them at all costs. I can't tell you how many people have bought these and they came with a nice new misfire as well. I use the Advanced Xact wires on all my trucks with no problems. Just my two cents.

 

On the Advance website it shows two options for wires. One is WITH EEC-IV, the other is WITHOUT. Is EEC-IV aka EFI and the other is for carbs? or does EEC-IV mean something else and if so how do I determine if I have it or not?

 

p.s. what are you guys using for caps and rotor replacements? $80+ racing ones or something fancy need to respond.

 

a.) EEC-IV = engine computer for "feedback" carburetors (1984-1986) and EFI models

b.) without EEC-IV = conventional, all-mechaincal carbureted vehicles

I think the difference is mostly in the coil wire. Older vehicles used the Duraspark ignition with a canister style coil. The newer vehicles with the EEC-IV engine computer used the TFI ignition with a square type "E-core" coil.

For spark plug wires, caps, and rotors (and all other replacement parts), I find that Motorcraft parts are hard to beat.

 

The motorcraft wire sets have the coil wire for both the Duraspark Coil, and the TFI-IV/EEC-IV coils.

I'd get the Motorcraft Plugs, Plug wires, Distributor Cap and rotor. Can't beat them in my opinion.

If you use a spark plug wire removal tool, those wires can last a long time indeed, they are the right resistance. Too little resistance is just as bad as too much.
Use dielectric grease, (it comes in small tubes) to coat the inside of the plug wire boots. Not only does the grease make removal of the wires easier, but the dielectric grease also seals out moisture, and helps make a better connection between the wires and the components.

The Motorcraft Distributor cap can be cleaned and reused often using very fine sandpaper. 1500 grit for example to clean the outer inside electrodes. Cleaning them like this with the 1500 sandpaper will make them look new again with normal use. You should only have to replace the Motorcraft cap when the center graphite electrode wears down flat, the outer electrodes are pitted or show signs of wear, or the plastic of the cap itself deteriorates or cracks. Try that with an aftermarket cap.

Using the Motorcraft parts you should only have to replace the Plugs and Rotor at every tune up, and the distributor cap and wires, when the resistance of the wires is beyond tollerance, and the cap fully wears out.