I am finally getting around to getting rid of the feedback carburetor and distributor. Have a Carter 1v from an '83 F150 300 and a DUI distributor.

Maybe I'm looking at this wrong, or have the wrong carburetor, but it looks like the heat riser tube to the choke is on the other side (driver) on the new carburetor. My current one, as I recall, has the tube on the passenger side. Also, I don't see the choke pull-off on the new unit. (does this need to transfer from the old one?)

** UPDATE **

I spoke to National Carburetor and they are telling me this carburetor doesn't use a choke pull off? Does that sound right?
Looks like i just need to plumb the new choke tube..

While I'm editing..

What wires can go away after this conversion? There are 2 wires coming from the air pump valve, some from the engine temp sensor and oil pressure sender, etc that are all part of the same harness that goes to the carburetor. Can I just 'unravel' and remove the parts that go to the old carburetor, distributor and coil? I could leave them in place but I'd like to clean it up a bit.

This whole project got moved forward when the truck decided to run like crap all of a sudden. Idles very rough, cold or warm. Checked manifold vacuum at idle and it only about 13 or so and fluctuates.

Argh....

Has anyone else ran into this and, if so, how did you deal with it?

I'm wondering if I need a different carburetor or if I need to fab some sort of tube to connect it (not really sure what that would involve..)

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks in advance

 

Your carb has a choke pull-off. The picture below is your carb correct? It doesn't have the choke pull-off hanging out by itself, it's the "choke piston" in the picture below, it's incorporated into the choke housing.

 

That doesn't quite look like my carburetor. The old one has a vacuum choke pull off mounted on the driver side.

The new one doesn't have that. They said to just plug off the old vacuum line. Speaking of which, what port on this carb should go to the new distributor vacuum advance?



My current one looks like the one below:

 

The above picture in my post is your "new" one correct? The picture in your post is your "new" one correct? It has a choke pull-off.

 

Can't really tell from your diagrams. The top picture in my post is my new one. The bottom picture is the old one.

I'm guessing the new one has a choke pull off, but doesn't use a vacuum line?

 

When I did the Duraspark II conversion on my own 1985 pickup (V8), I discovered that the wiring was a cobbled mess that all ran to the engine computer, located under the dash on my truck. The temperature and oil sending units as well as the tachometer were not separate from the computer wire harness, so you are probably going to have to wire these in yourself. In my case, the Duraspark II wire harness contained these wires, so all I had to do was remove the entire engine computer and all associated wiring and simply plug the Duraspark wiring harness into the truck's existing wire harness.

If you remove the engine computer, the EGR and evaporative emissions will be rendered useless because they were computer-controlled, so you can remove these items. You will need to use vacuum switches if you wish to have these devises functional again. All engine sensors (O2 sensor, MAP sensor, etc.) can be removed as well.

 

The wire harness is a friggin mess; connectors all over the place, what look like solenoids and relays, etc.

Would it work to just trace and remove any wires that where plugged into the computer unit and leave everything else?

I suppose the wiring could stay, but I'd sure like to clean it up. I just don't want to remove something I need.

In terms of EGR, I didn't think that was computer controlled, all I see going to it is a vacuum line. Is there a control solenoid somewhere? It looks like there is a bank of relays / solenoids mounted on engine (top, rear, driver side). Do those go away?

Is EVAP the charcoal canister or ?

What about the smog pump? Is it controlled by the computer as well?

 

Once you remove the computer and all wires, the only thing you need that was involved in that mess will be the sending unit wires and the tachometer, if your truck even has one. And all of those wires are part of the engine computer wire harness - well over 60 wires. The computer board should be located under the dash, or under the seat on some earlier models. I started by removing the computer itself and pulling all the wires connected to it through the firewall plug. You will be SHOCKED at the amount of wiring that comes out. Then remove the computer sensors, solenoids, and plugs. This will clean up under the engine bay DRAMATICALLY.

Not sure about the I-6 motor, but on my 302, the EGR was computer controlled with electronic sensors mounted on the valve covers. Earlier models (pre-1983) used a ported vacuum switch to operate the EGR valve. A ported vacuum switch (PVS) uses engine vacuum to turn on the valve at a specific time and temperature so as to not affect cold start and idle conditions.

Yes. The computer-controlled systems used a canister purge solenoid to control the evaporative emissions. If you wish to retain this system, you will need to use a canister purge valve and a ported vacuum switch to be functional.

My truck already had this removed when I took possession, so I'm not sure if that was controlled by the computer or not.