So I picked up a 2 barrel carburetor of a 1972 Ford Truck, most likely an F250. Has a tag and everything, this is a Motorcraft 2100-D (D2TF JB). No electric choke or anything like that. So I'm wondering if I can run the carb with choke permanently open? Also is there an electric choke conversion that I can buy, if so where is it? I can't seem to find one. Also what are the adjustments. I seem to have 2 needle valves to adjust and one other. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. Here are some pics:

 

That carburetor would have originally come with an automatic choke, but it has been removed. If you check out your first picture, you can see the three mounting studs where the choke housing assembly was once attached. One of the studs has two holes - one is threaded for the mounting stud screw, and the other is a manifold vacuum passage. When the choke housing is in place, that passage passes vacuum to the inside of the choke housing, to cycle warm air through the choke stove. You can also see the partially-missing fast idle linkage in the first picture.

If you run the carburetor like that, you'll have a vacuum leak due to the open choke housing mounting stud. Like I said, that carburetor is missing some hardware and is not supposed to be like that. To answer your other question, you'll have cold-starting problems running without a choke. But that's not your primary problem at this point.

To solve the problem, you'll have to pull the choke housing from another carburetor. Note that I'm not just talking about the black choke cap - the entire metal housing by which the choke cap mounts is gone. Just an FYI, the accelerator pump arm rod is missing as well. The rod by which you have the ID tag fixed is not supposed to swing free like that. Let's get that stuff straightened out, and then we can move on to adjustments because the carburetor can't be run the way it is now.

 

I understand that the accelerator pump rod linkage is missing, I'm already planning on making one of those, which isn't too difficult. After that can I get the carb running?

 

No; as I clearly explained in my previous post, that carburetor has a vacuum leak because the choke housing is gone, and the choke plate has no mechanism to close. The vacuum leak will make it difficult to tune, and the free-swinging choke and fast idle linkage will make it hard (if not impossible) to start and it won't idle during startup. Starting an engine without a choke is a good way to blow a power valve. As I stated before, you're missing crucial hardware that must be replaced.

 

Would plugging those holes, having the choke open permanently work? Also what is the deal for the fast idle, what is that needed for?

Will any choke mechanism from any motorcraft 2 barrel carb work?

 

For the third time. Without a choke, the engine will be very hard to start, if it starts at all. If it does start, it will run very rough until it reaches operating temperature. Furthermore, starting the engine with the choke wide open runs the risk of blowing the power valve.

While the choke is engaged, the motor must maintain a higher idle to compensate for the enriched combustion chemistry. There is a mechanical linkage that raises the idle of the engine while the choke is engaged.

Most 2100's and 2150's should have what you need. Some very early model 2100's (maybe as far back as the Autolite 2100's) may have a choke pulloff piston that pre-dates the air-horn mounted pulloff you have, so pretty much any 2-barrel from the 70's should work (I can't make any gaurantees though).

Here is some useful background information on Motorcraft chokes:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116

 

Alright thanks for the information, I just went ahead and got another one on ebay for cheap that can be rebuilt or canabalized for parts and it seems to have all the parts needed. I'll post again once I get the next motorcraft.

 

Is there anyway I could get a picture of the hot-stove choke setup? Meaning the piping to the choke mechanism.

 

If you have a 74 your good to go, I think the smog anything as far back as 76, when they started putting catalytic converters in.

Anyways, I found a proper and complete motorcraft carb, with everything. surprisingly enough of a 1968 Ford Galaxie, same size and everything, just a few minor differences, here's some pics:

 

That post you quoted isn't part of this thread. Whoever that guy is isn't going to see what you wrote.

I don't think that carburetor is a Motorcraft 2100, it looks like an Autolite 2100. They're essentially the same thing (Ford sold Autolite and created Motorcraft to replace it), but the two era of carburetors have subtle differences. Mainly the one I mentioned in my third post - your old one has an air-horn-mounted pulloff, while the new one does not. If memory serves me correctly, the pulldown in the new carburetor is intergral to the choke housing and uses a vacuum piston. As such, I'm not sure this one is going to work. Try it and see. I did say to look for one from the 70's...

 

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke1.jpg

It starts like it's fuel injected and runs plenty good after that. ;)

There have been a couple other guys on FTE with the same
choke setup I've got one was in the Dakotas and the other in
Michigan and claimed the same things. YMMV?

I have a collection of different sizes of shotgun shot that sure
enough has come in handy when working on carburetors. ;)

Alvin in AZ