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According the Ford Coffee Table book, all 6.7's are equipped with a block heater and the power cord is optional.
Page 30
Yes that was originally printed in the first edition of the coffee table book, but it has been proven false many times over. On past powerstroke platforms this was true, but I can vouch for the fact that not all 6.7s are equipped with the heater unit. I can't remember which states, but there are only a handful of "cold weather" states in which the block heater is standard equipment.
If I had to guess, the coffee table book was published long before the 6.7 went into production and never got corrected. To my knowledge, they have not published an update since it was released in early 2010. Hopefully in a few months we will see an update for the improved 2015 version of the 6.7.
Don't know if it is valid on these trucks, but .............
On truck block heaters you can't run the engine with the heater on. The water flow around the element creates cavitation, and the momentary lack of coolant around the tube cause the heaters to burn out.
Found that out the pricey way on my twin Detroit 6-71 boat.
Good to know. I always unhook before I get in the truck anyway. I'm afraid if I don't, I'll forget and drive off dragging the orange extension cord behind me.
Good to know. I always unhook before I get in the truck anyway. I'm afraid if I don't, I'll forget and drive off dragging the orange extension cord behind me.
Haha, seen that many times. Hope its not true cause I use remote start and mine stays plugged in till I leave. Only done it a few times so far but it's still working, usually those heating elements burn out in seconds if they aren't submerged.
I wish it was included and I would have purchased the cord already.
But sadly, the printing is wrong even for a 2011 Job1 truck.
Mine doesn't have the element.
What about those who remote start with it plugged in?
The element is the same one that is on the 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4. The cord is the expensive part. I bought both items at my dealer for around $160. Just waiting for a day that I can put it in.
The 6.7s do not come standard with a block heater. Only trucks that are bought in 11 states. Mine here in GA didn't have one. That's why there is an element and cord lying in my garage to put on mine when I have the time.
I should have searched the OP's location prior to speaking, my bad. I assumed he was from a cold weather place, instead of Texas.
Originally Posted by SultanGris
a few seconds after you plug it in, around 3 to 10 you should hear some faint noises emanating from the engine compartment.
This has been my experience as well.
Originally Posted by ct diesel
I haven't plugged in my 2011 f250 yet waiting for single digits.
In my 02/ 7,3 I would plug it in for 4 hours prior to starting, and it would fire right up. It made for easy starts and within two or three miles I would have heat. Noting you had to strain your ears to hear a faint humming sound when running.
The one thing that I found out quick with the 7.3 heater was that your first electric bill after plugging it in all night was a whopper. So bought a timer and set it for 4 hours and it worked fine.
I do believe from what I've read that the new heaters are smaller in output.
I use a timer at home also set to 4 hours, but at work it's plugged in for 12-14 hours.
Originally Posted by PlayersZ28
Plugged mine in this morning. Only for an hour before I left. Outside temps -17c, engine temp when I started it was 48F. Engine temp when I got to work after 5km driving was 130F.
When started at these temps the idle is 1175rpm. Was still at that idle when I parked at work. Is this the normal idle rpm when the engine is cold?
Nice feature, I think. Mine was there all last week during the cold snap.
Originally Posted by porthole
Don't know if it is valid on these trucks, but .............
On truck block heaters you can't run the engine with the heater on. The water flow around the element creates cavitation, and the momentary lack of coolant around the tube cause the heaters to burn out.
Found that out the pricey way on my twin Detroit 6-71 boat.
So far after 3 1/2 winters, I haven't had a problem starting mine while it's still plugged in. I know cavitation has destroyed many a heater tho. Haven't heard anything bad about these ones we got though, yet. Fingers crossed.
Originally Posted by SultanGris
Haha, seen that many times. Hope its not true cause I use remote start and mine stays plugged in till I leave. Only done it a few times so far but it's still working, usually those heating elements burn out in seconds if they aren't submerged.
Ditto! Me too.
Originally Posted by porthole
Included or not, the 16 listed states are:
AK, CO, IA, ID, ME, MI, MN, MT, ND, NH, NY, SD, VT, WI, WY
and mine - the "State of Confusion"
Thanks for the update, Duane.
Originally Posted by golfmedik
The element is the same one that is on the 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4. The cord is the expensive part. I bought both items at my dealer for around $160. Just waiting for a day that I can put it in.
Let us know how the install goes. If I keep running mine with it plugged in, I will probably be swapping it out.
On the running the truck while the heater is on deal, I never had a problem with my 6.0. It was plugged in every day that temps were below freezing and quite often I would run out and start it in the morning and let it warm up 5 to 10 minutes before I left. I would usually unplug the heater as I got into the truck to leave.
I understand the concerns for cavitation, but with the thermostat closed and the engine at low rpm you aren't getting much circulation. I suspect that the element is in more danger of boiling the coolant away from itself than being exposed to air pockets from the engine running. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it!
On the running the truck while the heater is on deal, I never had a problem with my 6.0. It was plugged in every day that temps were below freezing and quite often I would run out and start it in the morning and let it warm up 5 to 10 minutes before I left. I would usually unplug the heater as I got into the truck to leave.
I understand the concerns for cavitation, but with the thermostat closed and the engine at low rpm you aren't getting much circulation. I suspect that the element is in more danger of boiling the coolant away from itself than being exposed to air pockets from the engine running. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it!
Back in the day when vehicles didn't come with block heaters, or they were an option, I used to install one of the circulation heaters that went into the heater hose. Is there any way to install one of these on the trucks? Haven't dug around under the hood to see where the hoses are.
Back in the day when vehicles didn't come with block heaters, or they were an option, I used to install one of the circulation heaters that went into the heater hose. Is there any way to install one of these on the trucks? Haven't dug around under the hood to see where the hoses are.
I think those are actually better anyway, maybe more costly to run though not sure.
I think those are actually better anyway, maybe more costly to run though not sure.
I still have the inline coolant heater hanging in the garage from my 79 Bronco. Thought about putting in my 6.4 but with all the bad rads and coolant leak problems I decided not to. With my 6.7 having primary and secondary cooling systems with multiple rads, pumps and thermostats, I can’t see it being that effective.
I still have the inline coolant heater hanging in the garage from my 79 Bronco. Thought about putting in my 6.4 but with all the bad rads and coolant leak problems I decided not to. With my 6.7 having primary and secondary cooling systems with multiple rads, pumps and thermostats, I can’t see it being that effective.
Totally agree... And you never know what the computer will be recieving from the sensors, and screwing things up.