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When I plug mine in, I don't feel any warmth from the plug or cord the next morning, or any heat escaping the engine compartment. I also don't see instant heat blowing from the registers. What I do see though, is that the engine warms much faster. Once I begin my trip, I have warm air within minutes, and the coolant temp gauge shows normal after only a could of miles, instead of several. (Never checked the actual coolant temp though - just referring to the needle). With my old 7.3, I felt the plug and cord get warm, and felt heat escaping from the engine bay after a few hours. I think the 7.3 had a larger element though, and also worked on the oil by way of the cooler assembly. As I recall, the element was built into the oil cooler, so it warmed the coolant and oil together. (Been a while since I had my 7.3)
If I remember right, and I'll try to remember to verify, the coolant needle at half is around 170°F.
I consider operating temperature around 195°F since that's where it levels out and tends to stay under 200F without towing or payload.
Edit: Except I may be thinking about the oil temps. Will have to check now.
Just do the test. I did this with the first winter my truck experienced so I would know how much power the block heater was using (and therefore dissipating, since resistive heaters are pretty much completely efficient). P=I*V.
I was under the impression that it is not thermostatically controlled, but rather always on once plugged in and will heat as much and to whatever temp possible, given ambient conditions.
Isn't the magic number somewhere around 80* that the coolant is heated to?
That depends on the ambient temperature. If it's zero degrees outside, I doubt if the engine temperature gets much past 40 or 50 degrees. The heating element is only 850 watts which provides about 2900 BTUH. That's not very much.
I was under the impression that it is not thermostatically controlled, but rather always on once plugged in and will heat as much and to whatever temp possible, given ambient conditions.
That's my understanding, too.
It's an element attached to an electrical cord.
Yesterday morning the temps were in the low teens so I, just for kicks and giggles, plugged the heater in on a timer to turn it on 4 hours before I planned to go out. The ScanGauge II read the water temp before I started it up at about, IIRC, 85 degrees. As soon as I started it and the water started to circulate it dropped down to the 50's in a few seconds. As mentioned before, the heater started to blow warm air much quicker then days when it was not plugged in.
If not for the ScanGauge I would have had no indication the heater was working. The cord and plug were cold and no snow had melted off the hood.
I haven't plugged in my 2011 f250 yet waiting for single digits.
In my 02/ 7,3 I would plug it in for 4 hours prior to starting, and it would fire right up. It made for easy starts and within two or three miles I would have heat. Noting you had to strain your ears to hear a faint humming sound when running.
The one thing that I found out quick with the 7.3 heater was that your first electric bill after plugging it in all night was a whopper. So bought a timer and set it for 4 hours and it worked fine.
I do believe from what I've read that the new heaters are smaller in output.
Plugged mine in this morning. Only for an hour before I left. Outside temps -17c, engine temp when I started it was 48F. Engine temp when I got to work after 5km driving was 130F.
When started at these temps the idle is 1175rpm. Was still at that idle when I parked at work. Is this the normal idle rpm when the engine is cold?
Plugged mine in this morning. Only for an hour before I left. Outside temps -17c, engine temp when I started it was 48F. Engine temp when I got to work after 5km driving was 130F.
When started at these temps the idle is 1175rpm. Was still at that idle when I parked at work. Is this the normal idle rpm when the engine is cold?
Yup, mine does the same high idle when below zero, even if the engine is warm.
The 6.7s do not come standard with a block heater. Only trucks that are bought in 11 states. Mine here in GA didn't have one. That's why there is an element and cord lying in my garage to put on mine when I have the time.
According the Ford Coffee Table book, all 6.7's are equipped with a block heater and the power cord is optional.
Don't know if it is valid on these trucks, but .............
On truck block heaters you can't run the engine with the heater on. The water flow around the element creates cavitation, and the momentary lack of coolant around the tube cause the heaters to burn out.
Found that out the pricey way on my twin Detroit 6-71 boat.