HELP!!!
I got my engine back together and in the truck, now it won't start. I am pretty sure the cam timing is off.
Here is what I did.
When I installed the timing chains, I looked both on here and in my book. The instructions I found everywhere said to rotate the crank until the keyway is at 12 O'clock. Then place the single dark link on the chain on the mark on the crank. Then place the double dark links on the mark on the cam gear so the mark is between the 2 dark links.
With the key at 12 O'clock it put the timing mark on the crank gear at about 7 O'clock.
I turned the engine carefully 3 or 4 revolutions by hand, with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. No breaker bar and no cheater pipe on the ratchet. It turned good, did not bind up or have any problems so I figured it was on.
Put the engine back in and tried to start it. I get a backfire through the intake and it won't run. It will start to turn faster like it is trying to fire, but the backfire through the intake won't let it start.
So, back to the book. Now I see the keyway at 12 O'clock position is for the 2004 and newer engines. It looks like for the older engines you set the timing mark on the crank at 6 O'clock, and line the chain marks up from there.
Opinions wanted, is this my problem? Did I set it a couple of teeth advanced? Is the timing for the 1999 different than timing the 2004?
Thanks for any help!

 

There is an exauhst stroke and compression stroke I bet you are on the exaigjst strine

 

I wondered if it mattered where the pistons were when lining up the timing marks, if #1 had to be on TDC or not.
I don't think I am on an exhaust stroke, it is not backfiring through the exhaust. Isn't the intake and exhaust and intake strokes designated by the cam timing? Without the heads and cams on there is no difference between the compression and exhaust strokes? Without the cams rolling over, the pistons just move up and down?
That is part of my confusion, what position does the crank have to be in when timing?

 

If you are on tdc exaughst side that will mean you are 180 out of time. Every other stroke of any motor is the compression stroke. Hence that is why it gets easier and harder to turn the motor over by hand.

 

So, if I pull the timing cover and valve covers to re-time it, how do I need to line things up? Set the engine timing mark at TDC before pulling the cover, then move the crank shaft timing mark to 6 O'clock, then line up the single colored link on the chain with the mark on the crank, then line up the marks on the cam gears?
Are these engines a waste spark design? Do the plugs fire every time the piston is at TDC both on compression and exhaust strokes? I know a lot of motorcycles use a waste spark system, the spark plug fires on compression and on exhaust strokes. This saves a lot of electronics issues keeping the spark on every other crank revolution.

 

It should only fire on intake side. I'd pull the The timing cover back off reset the cams then pull the number one spark plug out put your finger near the hole and have a friend turn the crank till you feel the compression come out of the hole then rotate the crank to the 12 o clock position and you are now tdc compression side. Then just put your chains back on and your good to go.

 

OK. I am seeing 2 different sets of directions on the 99 engine. One says to put the timing mark on the crank at 6 O'clock. The other says to put the crankshaft key at 12 O'clock. Then line up the links on the chain.
When the keyway is at 12 O'clock that puts the timing mark at about 7 O'clock.
I don't remember where the key or the mark was when #1 was at TDC. I will do that as soon as I get the cover off.
I also saw somewhere where the 2004 and newer was timed with the key at 12 O'clock and the 2004 and older was timed with the timing mark at 6 O'clock.
I think I will start with #1 at TDC. Then pull the valve covers off and see where the cam is in relation. With #1 at TDC either the exhaust valve should be open getting ready to close, or both valves should be closed and the intake getting ready to open.

 

Your on the right track now if I'm not mistaken the two cams should he facing 6 o clock and the crank should be at 12

 

Thanks! Going to try to get it apart today and see what I can get done.

 

The timing marks not key ways.

 

UPDATE!
Ok, I got the engine apart, and timing reset (I think).
I got the valve covers off. I set the crank at TDC on the front pulley. With it at TDC on the timing mark, I checked the valve positions by looking at the camshaft on number 1 cylinder. At that position the exhaust valve had just closed, so I was finishing the exhaust stroke. So, I rotated the crank one time to TDC again by the mark. This time both valves were closed. At that position, the timing mark on the passenger side cam was close to 12 on the clock. I looked at the drivers side cam and the mark was about at 3 on the clock. So, I concluded the cam on the drivers side, right side, was about a quarter turn off. If I remember by book correctly when timed one cam mark should be at 11 the other at 12.
Anyway, I pulled the chains off. I set the timing mark on the crank at 6 O'clock. It was very close to 6 with the timing mark at TDC. The key way was at about 11. I set the single colored links on the timing mark on the crank and the double colored links centered over the mark on the cams. That put the left cam about 11 and the right cam about 12, again according to my book.
It was 330 in the morning by then so I quit for the night.
Another couple of questions came to mind though. 1, of course am I timed right now? 2, when I rotate the cams they jump. They turn a little, then spring ahead. I am assuming it is the valve spring tension pushing the cams farther into their rotation. 3, how tight should the timing chains be? There is slack on the chains. I assume when the engine starts and oil pressure pumps up the tensioners will take up the slack, but until then? I also wonder if the right side tensioner needs replaced? I replaced the left tensioner because of a previous problem. Is maybe the ratchet on the tensioner worn and not holding pressure? I am just curious if that chain jumped because of slack in the chain because of the tensioner, or if this is normal?
Anyway, now I think I am timed right but can't stop wondering why it ended up being so far off on the one cam.

 

Addition to my update.
Today went out and double checked the timing. It was right on. So, I put my ratchet on the front bolt and started rotating the engine. As I turned it, the right timing chain jumped on the crank sprocket.
I am not sure if the chain is stretched, or the hydraulic tensioner is not holding it strong enough. The engine has around 50,000 or 60,000 miles. I pulled it down because of a bearing problem. It was running when I shut it down to pull it apart.
I think I will start with a new tensioner and go from there.

 

I would buy new chains and tensioners sounds like you got it right on track good work buddy

 

Ordered chain and tensioner a couple of minutes ago. They will be here Tuesday.
Next, just hope it didn't mash a valve!
Thanks for the help in getting this figured out!

 

Its no problem. I'm glad some good came out of today the rings blew out of my f250 today so now I'm in for a rebuild that's going to cost me around 600 bucks