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Timing a 1999 5.4 HELP!!!

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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #16  
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That sucks! At least I have my old 84 F250 up and running for now, but the 6 MPG I get out of that 460 is nothing like my 99! I am out a 4x4, which is really hurting with this snow, but at least I am on the downhill side.
Good luck with yours!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 07:47 PM
  #17  
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From: Santa Fe Tx
Thank you very much I hope we solved your problems with the 99. I'm sure I'll have my truck back in acouple months. Cause I have to save money to buy the parts and tear it down to see what parts I need.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 03:24 AM
  #18  
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OK. I got the new left bank timing chain and tensioner today. Put them in tonight. I turned the engine back to #1 at TDC, then turned it until the crank shaft timing mark was at 6 O'clock. Just a shade before TDC. Then I lined up the single dark link on both chains with the crankshaft timing mark. I centered the cam shaft timing marks between the 2 dark colored links on the timing chain and put the guides in.
After I got the chains on, I turned the engine with a ratchet. It turned a couple of revolutions without the chain jumping, so I think I have it right this time.
So, I put the battery in and turned the engine over with the starter for 30 second or so off and on. The timing chains did not jump or slip again. After that, I put it back to TDC and checked. The cam timing marks were again back to about 11 O'clock on the right and 12 O'clock on the left.
So, I think I got the chain issue fixed for now.
The right chain slaps a little, I am hoping when the tensioner pumps up this slap is gone. I should have replaced both chains, but being broke like I am, I went cheap.
I am in the process of getting the engine back together. Valve covers back on, timing cover on, wires and hoses hooked back up. In the morning the oil pan bolts, front pulley, power steering pump and radiator then to see if it will run.
My next hope is that I got lucky and did not mash a valve. My luck, I am sure I bent one, but maybe...... my luck has to change sometime!
Thanks again for the help and advice! As long as the valves are good and everything seals up good it will be back on the road.
I am expecting a valve cover leak too after putting the covers back on in the truck. Not a lot of room to work!
Baby steps!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #19  
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From: Santa Fe Tx
Hell yeah buddy let me know what happends
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 03:58 PM
  #20  
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Well, it runs. But it has a bad miss. Now for a compression check, and probably new valves or a used head.
I am really getting tired of working on this truck!
You figure anything out on yours yet?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #21  
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Yeah I found a fully rebuilt motor I thought it was a 302 till I checked the numbers and it came back to a 289 I'm swapping to carb I've got a build thread if you want to check it out I also have pics going up Suzie Q's build thread
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:26 PM
  #22  
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Sounds like you had a valve drop buddy sorry to hear that. It could also be a tooth or two out of time causing it or the can positioning sensor got damned could cause it too
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:31 PM
  #23  
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From: Santa Fe Tx
Cam positioning sensor got damaged damn auto correct
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 01:58 AM
  #24  
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I finally got a new compression gauge that will work on this. I went to sears and found one for $40. When I got to the register it rang up at $14, then with my wifes little card thing she has I got it for $11.
So, tonight I start to do a compression check on the pickup. I was just testing cold. Cylinder #5 had right at 150 pounds. Cylinder #6 would not even read. I am guessing 0 pounds compression is a bad thing. So, I am in the process of pulling the head off that side. Pretty sure when the timing chain jumped it must have bent a valve. At least it only ran for a minute or minute and a half, so hopefully it will be an easy fix.
But it was still a good day, I spent a lot less money than I planned on the tester.
It's the little things!
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 02:23 AM
  #25  
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From: Santa Fe Tx
Yup.I believe you have an interfence motor. That means when the timing goes so does a valve or two. I had a neon once with 124000 miles on it blew the timing chain 100+ miles from home on my way to work. God I miss that gas saver. 54mpgs from Santa fe tx to orange tx cost me 20 bucks a day to drive 200 to 300 miles round trip.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #26  
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Well, I finally got time to get back to the 99. Got the head off and checked it out. I had forgot my glasses so I couldn't tell for sure if the valves were seated tight. SO, I set my work light in a bucket and set the head on top of the bucket. I rotated the cam until the intake valves on each cylinder 1 at a time were supposed to be closed. I looked down the intake port and could see light around 3 of the 4 valves. I am assuming I must have 3 bent valves. Not sure why #5 survived.
I am thinking that the size of the exhaust valves, the exhaust valves were not as likely to get bent? What I can see they look like they are seated tight but I haven't pulled the exhaust manifold yet to do my light check.
I am going to post another question on a new thread to make sure the exhaust valves are not in danger.
Now I am kicking myself for going cheap and not replacing both tensioners when I was at it the first time!
 
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 06:26 PM
  #27  
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From: Santa Fe Tx
Man that sucks bubba
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 03:57 AM
  #28  
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Well, got it back together tonight finally. Total in this project.
crankshaft and bearings replaced.
Timing chains, guides, tensioners and tensioner arms replaced.
3 new intake valves.
New spark plugs.
Got it back together, turned the key and it fired right up. So far running good. No miss, no knock, good oil pressure.
I only ran it a minute though, so I don't know how it will run when it gets up to temperature. I used a tarp to build a tent over the truck and attach to my garage for heat. When it is -4 outside it is good to be warm when working! But I didn't want to fill the tent with fumes. Plus I only had a gallon of coolant in it, just in case I had a leak or had to tear it apart again.
The only problem I found, the check engine light came on. I think (hope) it is on because I had not put the air filter back on. I was running it with the throttle body open, the air filter assembly was still on the bench. Hopefully the CEL was because that was still disconnected.
Tomorrow I will top off the coolant, check and top off the oil, and pull the tarp off of the exhaust pipe. Then I can let it run to temp and make sure it is all good. Won't be able to hit the road yet though, I don't have the correct battery right now and I let the plates expire. The battery is out of my 84, and the posts are on the wrong side so I just prop it in to get it to start. Payday next week I should hopefully have it back on the road!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:31 AM
  #29  
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Good news man. Im glad to hear it
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 02:41 AM
  #30  
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Today I let it run for about a half hour. Came up to temp, held oil pressure, no leaks.
Next I need to get a battery. Then I need to add a little antifreeze, it is just a little weak for my liking. Then license it and get it back on the road!
Next I have an 88 F250 to work on for someone. At least that one will bring me money, not cost me money. Something electrical, the starter won't turn. I am thinking either a bad ground or a bad ignition switch. Possibly a bad neutral safety switch. Really leaning to a ground though. Jumping it at the solenoid doesn't work.
Thanks for the information! It has been 20 years since I worked as a mechanic, so I am more than a little rusty.
 
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