According to the manual I am using:

Engine/ Cylinder head/ gasket flatness [2]:

.003 in any 6 in.
.006 overall
[2]= Gasket surface finish - RMS 60 - 150

Page 58 says the cylinder heads CANNOT be resurfaced. Use a straight edge and a .006 feeler gage to determine warpage.

EDIT: According to this article http://www.dieselmotors.info/cylinde...surfacing.html

"...For example, the head thickness on Navistar 6.9L engines (measured between the fire deck and valve cover rail) must be maintained at between 4.795 and 4.805 in., a figure that, when manufacturing tolerances are factored in, practically eliminates the possibility of resurfacing. As delivered, the exhaust valve might come within 0.009 in. of the piston crown, and the piston crown clears the roof of the combustion chamber by 0.025 in. Admittedly, these are minimum specifications, but it is difficult to believe that any 6.9L can afford to lose much fire deck metal...."

 

It is interesting that the head is warped that much and you did not report any coolant leakage. For a head that has .006 permitted warpage that says a lot.

My manual also does not stipulate the use of new head bolts, which would indicate regular head bolts that require re-torquing. Do you have regular head bolts? Some 80's gassers that I have seen with 30k miles had regular head bolts, some of which were almost finger tight when initially examined, and did not have any leak issues.

 

Yes sorry guys those measurements were a little off lol when I was typing, apparently I didn't reread what I was posting haha.. In fact it is .002"-.003" on the back corner of number 8 cylinder, wasn't using any coolant or leaking coolant but I had an oil leak at that corner of the head. Even pulling a hill and pedal to the metal I think I only saw the gauge at 210*F

 

That was a interesting article

 

I recall you are allowed no more than .003 in 6 inches. The oil leak could be due to loose head studs or poor gasket installation- even from the factory! Thoroughly clean the head/block mating surface before you clean your valves.

The way I check valves is to turn the head over and plug any holes (install spark plug, glow plug, injector) and pour dry gas on the valves. If you are not getting a complete seal you will see the dry gas flowing down the stem. Most times, the valve seating surfaces were contaminated with carbon. You can try cleaning the seating surfaces of the valve and the block with a solvent, then assemble and check again. The manual will steer you correctly for pitting and grooves.

 

Just dropped off at another shop that has/done 6.2, 6.9 & 7.3 heads.. $180 for valve job and resurface, should have it back in about 4 days

 

So that is good to know that you can resurface the heads. Good deal.

 

Ya the owner had some old ford tsb's about overall thickness and all the min and max specs of the 6.9/7.3 IDI engines

 

Wow, that's too nice a truck to part out anyway, IMHO, super cab, 6.9 turbo, C6, gear vendors, running boards, Lariat interior.... all for $900. Pretty clean looking too.

 

Sounds like a good price on that head work! Glad you found someone that can do it.

Are you going to try to change that piston or do your best to clean it up?

 

I cleaned it really good, no high spots on it.. ideally I would change it but that's not really a option right now. I was planning on buying another 6.9 and build it on the stand over the summer and install this time next year. Trying to rebuild one piece at a time, parts aren't cheap for these... meaning overhaul kits studs, turbo, lower CR positions lol

 

Well got some not so good news back from the machine shop, the head has little cracks all over it. They are going to glass blast it on Monday to verify that the head has little cracks all over... So again I'm stuck with either trying to find a head and salvage this engine or buy another donor vehicle for the engine and turbo.. So what do you guys think?

12/21/13:
Think I found a donor trucks!

 

Got the head back today, finally. I'll have to take some pictures later but I really don't want to put this cleaning thing back on a dirty ol engine lol. Ended up cutting too of the intake seats that were surface cracked only, as well as a valve job. Everything else is good to go but here are some TSBs that the shop also gave me for future number reference

 

 

Those are some nice looking pre-cups... but there's nothing structural about them. I think the biggest worry is going to come from whether or not you trust that small part not to break off inside the cylinder.