Other side is the same way..... Bummer! So far I have the left side had fully exposed getting ready to pull the injection pump

 

Give me a few minutes and I am uploading a video for you guys

 

 

Is there really this many head bolts?
Also is this the correct sequence?

 

Yes. That is the correct procedure and pattern. I've never done the "line pattern" before though. I always just torqued them down in the same rotational order as the first two steps. I might be wrong for doing so, but the engines I've put back together say otherwise because they never had any problems that I'm aware of afterwards.

And the 7.3 head will not work on your 6.9 engine. They may be similar, but they're not interchangeable.

 

You should try the vacuum method before you pull the heads. Pull all the glow plugs. Note any that the tips broke off. Pull those cyls. injectors. Then stick a vacuum cleaner hose into the injector opening and shoot a little compressed air into the glow plug hole. Make sure the piston of the cyl. you are working on is at TDC. Some of those glow plugs will come out even if swollen without breaking with a little patience. Penetrating oil works well, soaking let sit, then twisting with pliers after it's off the threads. I had a couple stubborn ones when I changed mine, but I them out.

 

Cool thanks for the info

 

This ^^^ will save you a lot of work and headache. I pulled heads in an '84 F250 once. ONCE. Will never do it again. Next time I have to do head gaskets, the engine's coming out.

 

I know, I also tried that with no luck... I almost to the point of pulling the head, just the head bolts left

 

Well I don't know... Number 2 piston looks like crap, but there is a lot of carbon buildup. It looks like that previous owner overheated or left the glow plugs on too long and they failed, number 2 looks the worst. I know if this was a full-on rebuild I would put a new piston in it, but budget does not allow this and I am pressed for time . The head looks to be ok I will send it off to the machine shop tomorrow morning. Looking at cylinder number 2 piston I only see a few fresh marks from when I was cranking the engine over.. Unfortunately I think I might have to put this thing back together to run it and back way off on the timing to keep the cylinder temperatures cool. Aside from that the cylinder bore itself looks really good, anyway here are some pictures











The engine only smoked a little when it was cold, and when you put the pedal to the metal there was only a light haze from the exhaust. The engine also never had a knock and ran smooth, didn't have a misfire at idle or higher rpm.. You can run your fingernail across the top of the piston and only have a little drag, my only concern is I think this is going to create a really hot spot on the piston and eventually burn through? I'm going to try and smooth the piston top out and run it

 

WOW... looks like the PO lost a glow plug tip in that engine already.

 

Ouch. If it was me I'd at least find a used piston for that hole. The bore still looks good, no point in allowing that piston to fall apart further and ruin the cylinder.
I'm only seeing used 7.3 pistons on ebay right now, maybe someone in this forum has one they can make a deal with you on.

Of course, what really sucks it not being able to do that kind of work in-frame on these engines.

 

Yep that what I thought... the more and more I dig into this truck, I find that the po was full of crap lol. That's ok I'm not into that much, all my fluids have been free & I'm out just a top end gasket set plus $50 to the machine shop..

 

I know, I was wondering how I was going to do in frame lol...guess not!
Question can I rotate the engine over to bring that cylinder up with the IP out and gear just floating in the housing?

 

Also noticed when I pulled number 2 injector it was covered with oil? All the rest were dry, not to sure what that is telling me...