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glow plug install 6.9

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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:55 PM
  #31  
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Well not so good news from the machine shop... head is warped .050" on one side, and 2 leaking intake valves, leaking 20%...
The shop that I took it to said there no longer set up for the "diesel" heads.


Anybody in the central valley to northern California know of any shops set up for this kind of work? Please let me know asap, you can also call/text me @ 775-842-9232 thanks guys
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #32  
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by d-day

I know, I was wondering how I was going to do in frame lol...guess not!
Question can I rotate the engine over to bring that cylinder up with the IP out and gear just floating in the housing?
Anything on timing?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:19 PM
  #33  
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Originally Posted by d-day
Anything on timing?
I wouldn't, but that's just me. I think there's enough clearance at the top of the gear housing to let the IP gear fall off the cam gear. Not worth the risk to me, unless you feel like pulling off your timing cover. Then it's a negligent point, since you'll be able to actually see the timing marks.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #34  
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From: Manteca
That's what I was thinking... good point, thank you
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by airdale94
You should try the vacuum method before you pull the heads. Pull all the glow plugs. Note any that the tips broke off. Pull those cyls. injectors. Then stick a vacuum cleaner hose into the injector opening and shoot a little compressed air into the glow plug hole. Make sure the piston of the cyl. you are working on is at TDC. Some of those glow plugs will come out even if swollen without breaking with a little patience. Penetrating oil works well, soaking let sit, then twisting with pliers after it's off the threads. I had a couple stubborn ones when I changed mine, but I them out.
Since he has the intake off, I think it would be better to remove the valve springs and tie off the valves and try the vacuum trick or compressed air trick through the intake port.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:57 AM
  #36  
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by d-day
Well not so good news from the machine shop... head is warped .050" on one side, and 2 leaking intake valves, leaking 20%...
The shop that I took it to said there no longer set up for the "diesel" heads.


Anybody in the central valley to northern California know of any shops set up for this kind of work? Please let me know asap, you can also call/text me @ 775-842-9232 thanks guys
Can the head be shaved that amount? EDIT: The manual I use, page 58, says the head cannot be machined.

The leaking intakes may be due to carbon or shmootz due to bad valve seals- if it is this should be an easy clean up.
 

Last edited by Dieselamour; Dec 15, 2013 at 08:20 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #37  
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Yes it can be, but the shop wanted to do a valve job at the same time because they were saying something about overall thickness of the head... and that by doing a valve job the valves would be further in the head so a resurface could be done..
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #38  
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No personal experience with it myself, but what I've read in this forum is that it's not possible for the IP gear to lift off the lower gear as long as the gear cover hasn't been removed.

It's too late I know, but FWIW you don't have to pull the IP to pull the heads.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #39  
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From: Manteca
Apparently cylinders 2&4 had some issues before.. This is after I cleaned the head that I got back from the machine shop that still had some gasket material on it..



 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Wow, looking at that it's lucky your pistons don't have holes in them!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 07:35 PM
  #41  
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
Wow, looking at that it's lucky your pistons don't have holes in them!
I know! Lol I got #2 cleaned up and no high spots anymore.. machine shop said .050" of warpage... after I cleaned it, it only had .020-.030" at most.
what is the service limit on these heads?

Oh ya I'll also be using the paper gasket, not MLS gasket
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #42  
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Well searching around I found another running 85 2wd for 900 bucks, turbo 6.9... shop wanted over 700 do "fix" both heads. Soo do I fix heads or swap in a turbo engine?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #43  
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That's kind of an easy question, especially since after fixing the heads you still have a damaged piston.

That turbo used is worth $500 so you're getting the motor pretty cheap.


Assuming the money's there of course, sometimes the best deal isn't always affordable.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #44  
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
That's kind of an easy question, especially since after fixing the heads you still have a damaged piston.

That turbo used is worth $500 so you're getting the motor pretty cheap.

Assuming the money's there of course, sometimes the best deal isn't always affordable.
I know, I know. I can afford to do the one head right now and put it back together and run it but on the other hand it is a really good deal for a running and driving truck, with a turbo. The only bad part is its 2 wheel drive and my truck is 4 wheel drive, here is a picture I guess I could sell the rest of the truck, and it has a c6 with overdrive unit
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 08:45 PM
  #45  
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Well.. that truck was sold about 30 minutes before I got there...... I guess I'll just keep on truck'n with this engine, like I said it ran great before I had this issue I'm going to cross my fingers that it will run the same when I get the heads back on it
 
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