Electrical problems
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Electrical problems
This is the second time this year that I had to replace the alternator because it isn't effectively charging my batteries. I tested both batteries also and they were a year old but had some surface discharge from leaking cells. I replaced them with optimas and got a higher rated alternator, but when I installed one of the battery's, I forgot that the cable going to the cylinoid was a ground cable not a power one and got a nice shock when it touched the positive terminal. now my truck isnt getting any power at all. wont start, no headlights, nothing. I tested the batteries and they are holding a charge and have more than enough amps to meet the trucks needs. no blown fuses either. whats the problem?? I think it may be a fusable linkwire but I havent been able to identify them and the voltage regulator might be out which caused the alternator to overcharge the batteries maybe? any insight would help, thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
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From: California
I didn't think the 1991 had an external voltage regulator, but if you do have one, you might as well replace it regardless. It's like $8 on Rockauto and takes 3 minutes to replace.
Since you replaced the alternator and batteries, I would always replace the VR at the same time.
But like the previous poster said, ohm your wires. If your VR is OK, then trace back your wires by ohming them and you'll find the break in the circuit.
But my money is on your VR. (if the 1991 has an external)
Since you replaced the alternator and batteries, I would always replace the VR at the same time.
But like the previous poster said, ohm your wires. If your VR is OK, then trace back your wires by ohming them and you'll find the break in the circuit.
But my money is on your VR. (if the 1991 has an external)
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the cylinoid
the cable had quite a reaction when I attempted to attach it to the positive terminal. much like you would if you connected your jumper cables wrong. but thanks for the heads up! ill check the service manual and see if it does have a VR. This is weird, this truck is very reliable and never let me down until all of this happened but its also not holding its fuel prime. there is no hand priming pump and to reprime it, I have to crank the engine to push the air to the fuel filter bleed valve then bleed it. I know the pump is good because it will run once its primed and will start right up if its warm from the recent usage. and its a relay, I forgot that a cylinoid uses electrical energy to turn, much like a starter. and since its the main battery it would make sense if im not getting any power. Thanks guys!
Last edited by jasonfrench1993; Dec 8, 2013 at 08:43 PM. Reason: cylinoid is relay
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Voltage regulator will not cause a no-start issue. You can remove both your VR and alternator, throw them in the trash, and your truck will still start and run. All they do is charge the batteries.
Like mentioned above, check your fuseable links, then the connections, wires and then the relay itself.
None of the terminals on the relay should have a ground on it, one large one is hot from the battery with other wires getting their power at the same terminal. The other large terminal that has a cable from it to the starter is open until 12 volts are supplied to the small terminal then 12 volts go from the second large terminal to the starter solenoid which engages the starter.
The only ground wire the relay might have is if it has a second small terminal that is sometimes used if grounding though the mount isn't an option.
If any of this is confusing, maybe you can post some pics of your setup so we can see if something looks wrong or out of place.
Like mentioned above, check your fuseable links, then the connections, wires and then the relay itself.
None of the terminals on the relay should have a ground on it, one large one is hot from the battery with other wires getting their power at the same terminal. The other large terminal that has a cable from it to the starter is open until 12 volts are supplied to the small terminal then 12 volts go from the second large terminal to the starter solenoid which engages the starter.
The only ground wire the relay might have is if it has a second small terminal that is sometimes used if grounding though the mount isn't an option.
If any of this is confusing, maybe you can post some pics of your setup so we can see if something looks wrong or out of place.
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Got power to the truck, The relay wire was on the negative terminal. It was bad of me to connect it to the positive with the batteries connected, that caused a spark which to me looked as a short. anywhoo I got it to start but now that leaves me with a problem on the alternator I just replaced, it wont charge. my battery light is constantly on now and I need to jump it frequently. the ground cable and power wires are installed and the alternator is turning.... defective unit?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
What is your voltage at your batteries before you start the truck and while it's idling?
If a new alternator isn't charging, it sounds like you have a faulty VR. Hence, why your batteries are not charging up and you require a jump start all the time.
If a new alternator isn't charging, it sounds like you have a faulty VR. Hence, why your batteries are not charging up and you require a jump start all the time.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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Got power to the truck, The relay wire was on the negative terminal. It was bad of me to connect it to the positive with the batteries connected, that caused a spark which to me looked as a short. anywhoo I got it to start but now that leaves me with a problem on the alternator I just replaced, it wont charge. my battery light is constantly on now and I need to jump it frequently. the ground cable and power wires are installed and the alternator is turning.... defective unit?
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
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I am having a similar issue. Both batteries are fully charged and no matter how much the system is charging the battery light is still on. Any ideas how I get the darn thing off? Oh and the relay that feeds the glow plugs keeps clicking on and off...
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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It should click for a few seconds after its started, depending on temperature ford specs that it could afterglow (thats what the clicking is) for up to two minutes. I know there is a diode somewhere in the wire to the battery light, if it goes bad the light stays on.
As for the OP... im lost
only advice i can give is this: when i was having charging gremlins i scrapped the 1g stuff (external regulator) and went 3g, after that ive had no problems and a better alternator to boot.
As for the OP... im lost
only advice i can give is this: when i was having charging gremlins i scrapped the 1g stuff (external regulator) and went 3g, after that ive had no problems and a better alternator to boot.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
it shouldn't just keep cycling full time.just 4-7 or so more clicks after the light goes out.is that what its doing? if so that's normal,but you said it keeps doing it,so i read that as in never stops.that would explain the alt light never going out,cus that's a massive draw just always remaining on.