this is what my plug looked like this gp was also bad


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then my second question is my ebps only was in not very far and its looks like carbon was built up in threads I tried to clean with no luck. I'll try to run a tap threw see if I can get it in there farther but will this effect the operation of the sensor.



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I think you should replace the exterior engine harness connector, the valve cover gasket and the Under Valve Cover harness for that side of the engine.

There is a metal diaphragm inside the sensor that can be damaged if you run a drill or tap in there. If you can't get the carbon out with chemicals, then I'd recommend a new sensor.

I've gotten into the habit of cleaning my tube and sensor every 12-15k miles or so just to keep it from getting too clogged. Here is the procedure that I use:

 

Shake-N-Bake sure covered the EBPs.

Replace your VC gasket, your UVCH, and the VC pigtail [LINK]- they're toast.

 

Nice write-up. What de-carbonizing fluid do you use and where can we get it, or something like it?

 

I use brake cleaner to clean mine and it works great.

 

I picked it up at the dealership. My uncle is a Ford tech and he recommended the stuff. The guy at the parts counter didn't even know they had it back there. We had to ask for "PM2" in a can and eventually he found it. The parts guys are always good for laugh or two....

 

Too funny. But "carb" cleaner has always cleaned better than brake clean.

 

Yes for a carburetor but not on a ebps. I tried carb cleaner on my ebps and it didnt do that good of a job so I used brake clean and got what the carb clean couldn't. Thats just my experience.

 

If you guys ever get tired of cleaning that stock ebps tube here is what I did after fighting the many tight bends in the tube. I relocated the sensor about .5 inches further toward the radiator (away from the block) by cutting the bracket off the front cover on the High Pressure Oil Pump housing and bolting an extension plate in the space. Then I bent a piece of 5/16 aluminized brake line to fit between the exhaust manifold and the sensor(stnlss would work also). Do not use the poly coated line-it will smoke!
The result was two 90 degree bends instead of the 7 bends in a stock tube. This makes it so much easier to clean because the bends are more gradual using a standard tubing bender than the $90 Ford tube. $2.00 for the brake line. I also bought one 5/16" compression coupling, but was able to use the stock fittings after cutting both old tube and new tube. The brake line has a different fitting, but the stock Ford fitting works well with the brake line.

Another idea was to stick 1-½ Pvc or abs into the top of the degas bottle when flushing the coolant system. I piped over the top of the fender into a 5 gallon bucket by the front tire, eliminating the mess of coolant running all over the inside of the engine compartment. 1 - 10' stick of 1-½" pipe and 2 - 90 degree plumbing ells and some electrical tape to hold the pieces together temporarily worked really well.