Firewall threaded Inserts - 1963 Ford F100
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Firewall threaded Inserts - 1963 Ford F100
Happy Thanksgiving to All! This is my first post to FTE! 
I have a 1963 Ford F100 and have a number of bolts that are spinning in their threaded inserts in the firewall (hood hinges, battery holder). I was wondering if there is a newer type of insert that I can install if the old insert is destroyed or gone?
I have looked at a number of the other solutions: welding in a backer plate, etc but just wanted to know if anyone had found a solution using something like a rivet nut, jack nut, etc.
I have a 1963 Ford F100 and have a number of bolts that are spinning in their threaded inserts in the firewall (hood hinges, battery holder). I was wondering if there is a newer type of insert that I can install if the old insert is destroyed or gone?
I have looked at a number of the other solutions: welding in a backer plate, etc but just wanted to know if anyone had found a solution using something like a rivet nut, jack nut, etc.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 370
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From: Near Nashille, TN
I had one that was missing and the PO had replaced it with a wing nut. I welded a nut to a large flat washer, then tack welded the washer to the firewall through 3 small holes drilled in the firewall (drilled toward the outter edge of the washer).
You might be able to drill a couple of small holes and tack on the outter edge of the nut depending on your situation.
You might be able to drill a couple of small holes and tack on the outter edge of the nut depending on your situation.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2013
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I had one that was missing and the PO had replaced it with a wing nut. I welded a nut to a large flat washer, then tack welded the washer to the firewall through 3 small holes drilled in the firewall (drilled toward the outter edge of the washer).
You might be able to drill a couple of small holes and tack on the outter edge of the nut depending on your situation.
You might be able to drill a couple of small holes and tack on the outter edge of the nut depending on your situation.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Opp's, after writing response seems read it wrong and it's the castle nut that's spinning in the retainer. Wonder if it would be possible to remove bracket, etc., drill small hole thru firewall and into the castle nut then use a machine screw and thread into the castle nut and try securing it to backside of firewall, then clean the threads, both on castle nut, and bolt then try and tighten them down; if works, then remove the machine screw??? Anyhow, food for thought?? 
If the treads are damaged and the bolt spins I had similar problem but was able to use a die with same thread count and clean the threads. One of the castle nuts on the radiator support was totally striped and ended up drilling out the existing threads, just large enough to clean the threads, then went to the next size tap using same thread count. If decide to try, suggest check to make sure a 'starter' tap; which are longer will not be obstructed on the backside of the project; if so, may need to try using a starter to get the re-thread started then switch to bottom tap, which I would try to avoid if possible.
If the treads are damaged and the bolt spins I had similar problem but was able to use a die with same thread count and clean the threads. One of the castle nuts on the radiator support was totally striped and ended up drilling out the existing threads, just large enough to clean the threads, then went to the next size tap using same thread count. If decide to try, suggest check to make sure a 'starter' tap; which are longer will not be obstructed on the backside of the project; if so, may need to try using a starter to get the re-thread started then switch to bottom tap, which I would try to avoid if possible.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 370
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From: Near Nashille, TN
That's a good question. My cowl was cut open at the time, so access was not an issue. If we're talking about the nuts behind the cowl for the hood hinges.. you've got a couple of access holes.. one in the middle, and one under each of the front fenders. If you can get some string from the bolt hole over to an access hole, you might could pull it in place that way. Consider screwing a small stud in the nut first, then tying the string to the stud so you can pull the stud into the cowl, out through the bolt hole and use it to hold the bolt/washer in place while you weld (hope that makes sense).
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 64
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From: Fountain Valley CA
McMaster-Carr
Have used these many times over the years on many different applications.
Do your self a favor and spend the $ on a good crimping tool.
The small single lever type are really stressed on anything past 1/4-20.
Have used these many times over the years on many different applications.
Do your self a favor and spend the $ on a good crimping tool.
The small single lever type are really stressed on anything past 1/4-20.
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