Ignition module problems again possibly
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Ignition module problems again possibly
I was having problems with my modules earlier this year and thought I had it licked after I put a motorcraft on it instead of the china made ones from orileys, but today going down the road it died as if you shut off the key. I pulled over and turned the key and it popped right off and I drove it another 30 miles or so Without any issues. When I had issues in the past the engine would start lopping and if you let up on the gas it would die and not restart even after it completely cooled and would not start until a new module was put on, but this time is different. Does this sound like a module issue? I will add that the ignition coil has been replaced along with the pick-up coil and voltage regulator. My question is if it's the module what would be causing my truck to fry modules so often, with the china ones it took about 300-500 miles with the motorcraft about 2000 miles. I've checked the voltage with a multimeter at the moduel and output is normal at 14v so it is not being over loaded. What other issues would cause a moduel to continuously malfunction?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
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I had a similar problem, and it was caused by a wiring issue. In my case the PO had done a nice cut and connect job all over the ignition wiring harness. You could check there first.
I eventually went with an all-in-one HEI dizzy set up to bypass the ignition box altogether. One wire hookup. I like it very much, and I have had no problems since I swapped over.
That is another option. This choice was more cost effective than getting a new harness--go figure.
I eventually went with an all-in-one HEI dizzy set up to bypass the ignition box altogether. One wire hookup. I like it very much, and I have had no problems since I swapped over.
That is another option. This choice was more cost effective than getting a new harness--go figure.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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On some trucks I have seen, the red and white wire isn't plugged in.
I'm guessing this is for the rpm tach meter, if my memory is right.
Check all the wire connections at the coil, wire harness plugs.
Sometimes the wires get frayed and need a good look at with a flashlight.
You might need to peel back the electrical tape to get a good view/ inspection.
What about the gas filters?
Make sure the coil is grounded and also the distributor. these ground with the bolts / bracket. Make sure there not paint preventing good ground.
Check the resistance of the coil. I don't have any specifications for that.
What color of module do you have?
There is specification sheet that showed the specs / resistance across the terminals at the module. Maybe someone can post this?
I'm guessing this is for the rpm tach meter, if my memory is right.
Check all the wire connections at the coil, wire harness plugs.
Sometimes the wires get frayed and need a good look at with a flashlight.
You might need to peel back the electrical tape to get a good view/ inspection.
What about the gas filters?
Make sure the coil is grounded and also the distributor. these ground with the bolts / bracket. Make sure there not paint preventing good ground.
Check the resistance of the coil. I don't have any specifications for that.
What color of module do you have?
There is specification sheet that showed the specs / resistance across the terminals at the module. Maybe someone can post this?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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Testing...
Rodding Roundtable :: View topic - Testing ford duraspark dizzys...
The gist of it, is measure the pick-up orange and purple wires, the resistance should be between 400 and 700 ohms, and neither wire should show continuity to ground.
Josh
Rodding Roundtable :: View topic - Testing ford duraspark dizzys...
The gist of it, is measure the pick-up orange and purple wires, the resistance should be between 400 and 700 ohms, and neither wire should show continuity to ground.
Josh
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