So, it works now?

 

Just to clarify one point -

When you first press the accelerator down to set the choke (with a cold engine), the choke flap should snap fully shut, & stay shut until the engine starts.......if it's not doing this, the cap needs to be loosened & turned to close the flap with slight tension on the spring, then be locked in place again.

As soon as the engine starts, vacuum at the pull-off diaphragm will open the choke slightly to allow just enough air for the engine to run on smoothly while it's still cold; as the engine warms up, the choke slowly opens.
This gap, & the choke cap position, will originally have been specified on your valve cover; Chilton's manuals also have a lot of the specs listed.

But if everything is set correctly, the choke shouldn't be re-opening when you press the accelerator (cold) unless the dechoke cam is pushed, forcing the choke open. It's purpose is to allow a flooded engine to be cleared.

 

Good point, Ken. Reps to you for that. But, just to add, the de-choke feature is at wide-open throttle.

 

yes it is now working right and as far as before what is was doing is when it was first set it was closed but within a few seconds to a min after start the choke would open if the gas was touched, as it was getting to much power to the electric choke causing it to heat faster. so now its operating properly

 

That makes sense. 12v on a 7v choke will turn it off quickly.

 

yeah it dosent make since to why he would wire the 12 volt from across the truck with open ended conections other then just the right conector that was there already and gave the conection proction from the elements. well more then just a open conector.