welding a frame
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
welding a frame
okay so, this may be the wrong place to ask this, but i figure some of you guys must have experience with repairing the frame one one of these trucks, i just picked up a 72 f100, with a 240 straight six, 3 speed on the tree, it has a hole behind one of the shock mounts, what kind of welder should i get? does it absolutley have to be a 220v unit or can i do it with a 110v unit? what material thickness should i use?, i just always thought to use 3/16 steel, i wanna be able to do this myself, but i wanna make sure its right and of course safe for the road
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
How big of a hole? Yes, the frame is 3/16ths so that's what ya use.
In terms of 110v vs 220v, some 110v welders can weld 3/16ths or even 1/4-inch plate with proper preparation. Meaning, bevel the edges of both the hole and the patch, crank up the welder, and weld on both sides. You'll want to see a "bloom" on both sides indicating good penetraton.
I suggest pre-heating the metal with a torch, even a propane plumbing torch, to at least get the molecules willing to move around and bonded with the applied weld.
If you're still iffy about it, then weld plate over the repair. However, I don't think it is necessary if it is relatively a small patch job.
Btw, do you know what created the hole? Rust??
EDIT: Dang... that Bronco sure is crudded up. You have my sympathies.
In terms of 110v vs 220v, some 110v welders can weld 3/16ths or even 1/4-inch plate with proper preparation. Meaning, bevel the edges of both the hole and the patch, crank up the welder, and weld on both sides. You'll want to see a "bloom" on both sides indicating good penetraton.
I suggest pre-heating the metal with a torch, even a propane plumbing torch, to at least get the molecules willing to move around and bonded with the applied weld.
If you're still iffy about it, then weld plate over the repair. However, I don't think it is necessary if it is relatively a small patch job.
Btw, do you know what created the hole? Rust??
EDIT: Dang... that Bronco sure is crudded up. You have my sympathies.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 225
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yeah managed to get two good years out of that bronco put alot of work into it too, ive always wanted an f100, and now i finally got one, i wanted to c-notch the rear and do the crown victoria front end swap, i want a welder powerful enough to make it safe lookin at a hobart handler 140, its the most powerful 110 unit available to me
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
yeah managed to get two good years out of that bronco put alot of work into it too, ive always wanted an f100, and now i finally got one, i wanted to c-notch the rear and do the crown victoria front end swap, i want a welder powerful enough to make it safe lookin at a hobart handler 140, its the most powerful 110 unit available to me
If you plan on future frame mods I'd go with a 220V welder. Get the biggest welder you can afford.
I've got a 110V Lincoln ( But I really want a 220V one ) . It does just about everything I need it to. But on frames with my welder I don't trust it on anything serious. I use it for filling small holes and on some modifications on my 78's front frame horns. It requires a bevel like HIO Silver mentioned and multiple passes. Oh yea and it also requires flux-core wire on that thickness. That's no problem for me because that's all I use. I do my welding outside in my driveway.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 225
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cool, the local tractor supply sells a hobart 225 stick welder for like 320, but i need a power source, the drier circuit just wont cut it, its only got a 30 amp breaker, i was wondering about a generator what would i need to power that welder to the max
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 16
From: DFW Texas
Get the Hobart 140; it is fine for what you are doing. If at all possible, get some gas for it; much cleaner welds. You can always do a double pass on thicker stuff. If you need a bigger welder, dont get the stick welder, save your money and get a 220v mig welder. WELDMART has great deals right to your door.
Post a pic of this hole please.
Post a pic of this hole please.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Get the Hobart 140; it is fine for what you are doing. If at all possible, get some gas for it; much cleaner welds. You can always do a double pass on thicker stuff. If you need a bigger welder, dont get the stick welder, save your money and get a 220v mig welder. WELDMART has great deals right to your door.
Post a pic of this hole please.
Post a pic of this hole please.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
From: Kingston, Pa. 18704
I would never buy a 110 welder. I don't care what people say, you'll never get enough penetration with it on anything other than sheetmetal. The general rule is 1amp per .001" of material thickness. That would mean you would need roughly 187 amps to weld a frame properly.
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2008
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yeah i was lookin at a hobart 140, see, in order to run anything 220, i would need to have the service updated, right now, the house only has a 100 amp service, id need to run a 200 amp service in order to power the beast, and not to mention having a plug run out to the garage at least, with a hobart 140 i can run flux core wire, yes i know welds arent as pretty but because flux core burns hotter i get better penetration, for safety, i dont mind havin to spend a lil extra time cleaning up my welds, you guys are sure the 140 hobart will do the c-notches and be safe gfw1985 and f100today?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,144
Likes: 0
From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
I would never buy a 110 welder. I don't care what people say, you'll never get enough penetration with it on anything other than sheetmetal. The general rule is 1amp per .001" of material thickness. That would mean you would need roughly 187 amps to weld a frame properly.
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
Though we might differ on which color paint our machines should come in.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 16
From: DFW Texas
I would never buy a 110 welder. I don't care what people say, you'll never get enough penetration with it on anything other than sheetmetal. The general rule is 1amp per .001" of material thickness. That would mean you would need roughly 187 amps to weld a frame properly.
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
Buy it once, have it for life. I personally run a Miller 212 and use it daily.
You'll buy a 110 unit now and wish you had a 220 unit later. Trust me.
I've been a Machinist/Fabricator for over 30 years.
My $.02
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,371
Likes: 7
From: PA
I can't say much for Hobart 140's or other high grade 110 welders as I never used them I did have a craftsman 110 awhile back I used for my floor pans but that's as far as I used it for. I would never use anything but a 220 for anything stress related ESPECIALLY c notches. I finally upgraded last year to a millermatic 252p and It will handle just about anything I can throw at it. Only having a limited service box is your downfall. You might be able to use a 220 in your box but might need to shut off other breakers or not run washers dryers tv's ect while you fire up a 220 beast as long as you don't exceed 100A draw your box should be able to run it no problem.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
From: Kingston, Pa. 18704
The Millermatic 211 only draws 25A @ 220 volts so a common dryer outlet should work fine.
Keep in mind that the 25A is the maximum current draw at the highest setting. Something you'll rarely see.
Keep in mind that the 25A is the maximum current draw at the highest setting. Something you'll rarely see.