Need help
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
I would check the u joints to be safe .
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 963
Likes: 105
The heater control cable that was mentioned, is on the passenger side of the truck , just about even with the hood hinge if I recall, the other end is inside the cab right below the radio.
It is easier to remove the radio with the bezel attached , and you can look right in and see.
Your description of the clunk is to vague to be of any help .
Did it make the clunk from the beginning , or develop it afterwards?
It is easier to remove the radio with the bezel attached , and you can look right in and see.
Your description of the clunk is to vague to be of any help .
Did it make the clunk from the beginning , or develop it afterwards?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Ya always want to fix what you know is broke 1st. Even though the radiator in this case is not your problem since it is full. But just a lesson for in the future. A lot of times fixing what you know is broke also solves the issue.
Run water through the heater core and also the the Carb's spacer plate if the hoses are connected to it. You'll probably want to replace all the old rubber anyways.
Is your clunk in all gears? If it's only in 4th gear then I would suspect a broken tooth on the 4th gear in the tranny. If in all gears then check the driveshaft and it's U-joints. Look at the driveshaft front and rear for any signs of missing weights that were tack welded on to balance it. Grab on to both ends and try to move the driveshaft to see loose and worn out u-joints. AFTER doing all these and the above suggestions let us know what you find.
Run water through the heater core and also the the Carb's spacer plate if the hoses are connected to it. You'll probably want to replace all the old rubber anyways.
Is your clunk in all gears? If it's only in 4th gear then I would suspect a broken tooth on the 4th gear in the tranny. If in all gears then check the driveshaft and it's U-joints. Look at the driveshaft front and rear for any signs of missing weights that were tack welded on to balance it. Grab on to both ends and try to move the driveshaft to see loose and worn out u-joints. AFTER doing all these and the above suggestions let us know what you find.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Sounds like front end needs to be gone thur. Jack up the front end of the truck and use jack stands ( Or something for safety if jack fails) set e- brake and block off back wheels. Get a friend and have him turn the steering wheel while you look under truck at steering assembly. See if anything is worn or damaged and needs replacement. Grab the front tires and try to move back and forward to check wheel bearings. I'am betting clunk is radial arm bushings and the axle pivot bushings are also bad.
Reply
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
A "clunk" could be as simple as a loose front shock whose stem is banging against the mounting hole. Or an unsecured/disconnected electrical plug swinging like a shlong and banging against the body.
But we're all just taking stabs in the blackest of dark until the OP does a bow to stern visual, tactile, and aural inspection for missing or loose nuts/bolts, missing cotter pins, worn/missing bushings, fluid levels, and general integrity check of the entire truck.
What say ye oh Tyler Grey? It's time to get to it. Btw, the more you can do yourself the less you and the truck will be beholden to the local mechanic ($$$). These trucks aren't appliances like a toaster, clothes dryer, or Toyota. Our rigs take a certain amount of tinkering so let's hope you are ready to step up to the task of owning vintage steel.
But we're all just taking stabs in the blackest of dark until the OP does a bow to stern visual, tactile, and aural inspection for missing or loose nuts/bolts, missing cotter pins, worn/missing bushings, fluid levels, and general integrity check of the entire truck.
What say ye oh Tyler Grey? It's time to get to it. Btw, the more you can do yourself the less you and the truck will be beholden to the local mechanic ($$$). These trucks aren't appliances like a toaster, clothes dryer, or Toyota. Our rigs take a certain amount of tinkering so let's hope you are ready to step up to the task of owning vintage steel.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...ml%3B640%3B480
Look at the assembly on left and follow the short arm down to where the big washer is, behind it s the radial arm bushing. The longer arm if you look at the end you will see a metal bushing sticking out. There is rubber surrounding it that is the axle pivot bushing. Look for cracks etc. usually not hard to see if the're bad.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
The heater hoses should be HOT to the touch with the engine at operating temperature. If they are not, and there is adequate coolant, check your thermostat before doing heater core surgery.
Eric
Eric
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