Let me first say hello and I am proud to now be apart of this forum!

(EDIT)
My problem was yes a grounding issue. After about five hours of more wrenching I found out that there was an issue with the power window ground. Because after creating my own grown as a control to the problem. Thanks for the help!

My problem with my F350 is yesterday while driving down the road I had my:
-Lights
-Heat
-Dashboard Lights
(All On)
-And was in the process of rolling down my window
When all of a sudden my dashboard lights immediately died. Leaving me with my power window stuck down. As well as my heat cut off.

The strange part about the entire situation is now when my ignition is on the blinker notification lights as well as the high beam are stuck on. As well as the interior light. BUT they seem to be at a solid 30% what they would be at if full power was actually going to them. But when you actually turn these accessories on they go back to 100% power and work. Except for the windows, dash light, and heat/ac.
But the blinker, brakes, and high beams work perfectly well. The truck starts fine and runs just like it has. It only has 50,000 miles on it if I may add.

I have spent the entire day checking every possible fuse, swapping them out for new ones. I took booth doors apart trying to fix the power window to at least get the window up to save it from rain. I had even went so far to try and jump the window with 12v to make it go up.

But something is absolutely wrong. When I turn the heat (does not work) to 1,2,3,4 power levels the blinker lights and interior light almost seem to gain 5% increments of power for each level. This is simply insane. This all happened by just pressing the button for the window to go down.

Please let me know what any of you think. Thanks!

 

sounds like a ground problem to me . But I ain't there to see in person .

 

Did you check for codes?

 

No I have not went that far yet. Can you provide a direct access to code meanings?

 

I guess you could do worse than check the braided ground strap from the engine block or truck's frame to the cab as well as the pigtail from the negative battery post to the inside of the fender.

 

Any haynes or chilton book will give you obd1 code lists . This don't sound like an engine management issue though .

 

No, it doesn't.

Like JWC3 said originally, and as I tagged on to repeat, this sounds a lot like a grounding issue. Normally, current comes from the battery through the load, to the chassis or body, then back to the battery through its connection to the chassis or body. With everything failing all at once like that, and with it being multiple independent systems failing, it seems that you lost a ground that is common to all of them. The ones I called out are low-hanging fruit, as it were; also, they are common to the failed systems.

 

I see many people fixate on power supply . They fail to realize that dc current follows a dedicated path . Ground is as important as power supply .

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I will focus more time towards the ground side of things. It was in the back on my mind.

 

It almost seems like these things at 30% are stealing a ground from something else, thus corrupting the entire system. There were no tears or cuts in any of the door wiring or window controls as well. And when trying to jump the window motor there would just be an ark of power jumping off it. Instead of it actually functioning.

 

Sounds like a grounding problem, power may be going reverse through things putting them in series instead of parallel, would explain the 30percent.

 

Where are the main grounding points that I should check?

 

Check for proper grounds .I may be off base , but I would start there . A good DVOM would be nice . But a test light , used properly , can be helpful

 

Start at the battery post . Good clean ground . Follow the cable to fender , block , etc. If no issues found , a ground chart would be helpful . Good wiring diagrams will show ground locations .

 

Those items utilize multiple ground points, fender near bat and behind drivers side kick panel name couple for example. They do share a common power circuit though.

Check fuse "P" under hood power distribution box.

If fuse "P" is good quick test, do those items work when the key is turned to the "Accessory" position?

If so ignition switch is highly suspect but might be damaged circuit between switch and fuse position 14 under dash fuse box (fuse 14 should be a CB by the way) Blk-lt grn wire run between the two.