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I've seen plenty of engines that rock side to side, but never one that moved fore and aft, especially with an IRS. There is definitely something wrong, my money is on broken or disconnected motor mounts. Easiest way to tell, besides watching where it's moving while you goose the throttle, would be to put a piece of 2x8 under the oil pan sump on top a floor jack and jack up on the engine. It should be pretty obvious what's wrong when the engine lifts off the mount(s).
Check the end play on the driveshaft yolk, if the differential is torquing then it may be pushing the driveshaft forward...without the proper end play then there is only one way the the trans/engine can be pushed.
Check the end play on the driveshaft yolk, if the differential is torquing then it may be pushing the driveshaft forward...without the proper end play then there is only one way the the trans/engine can be pushed.
good idea - I have a u-joint going out - I get a clunk - the truck only has 5k miles since being built - it could be this is putting pressure on the joint causing premature failure - the drive shaft would have to have been custom made.
I'll try jacking it up first & the shaft play second.
good idea - I have a u-joint going out - I get a clunk - the truck only has 5k miles since being built - it could be this is putting pressure on the joint causing premature failure - the drive shaft would have to have been custom made.
I'll try jacking it up first & the shaft play second.
When the PO installed the driveshaft he may have measured it incorrectly. With the vehicle sitting on the ground (don't jack it up, just take a peek under the truck) there should be about an inch and a half of the transmission yoke sticking out of the transmission (it needs to work like like a slip joint). If it's too close, when you "get on it" it could be making the rear suspension depress and if the driveshaft is banging into the transmission everything would be jolted forward. If your truck is too low to get a good look, you will have to jack it up and rest the rear axle on jackstands and set the front frame rails on jackstands as well (so there's sprung weight on the rear suspension).
the rear suspension sinks significantly when I get on it. The jag rear end has 4 springs & 4 shocks - but it sinks a good 4 or 5 inches when i drop the hammer.
I've been meaning to replace the 4 shocks with a set of air shocks to help keep the rear in place.
so if the yolk is too long - can I just cut it down? Its not like a 4x4 where I'll get extreme axel droop from jumping or crawling over rocks.
But I blast around like I'm in my own personal rocket all the time.
You would need a shorter drive shaft (and maybe a longer yoke) since it has to have enough travel in and out of your transmission based on how much the rear suspension travels.
If it has irs the rear squat shouldnt change the distance between the tranny and rear end.
That's true, I didn't realize he has independent rear suspension. The differential would theoretically stay at the same position. Posting some photos might help solve the mystery.
You may want to be a little cautious about how much torque you subject that Jaguar rear end to. When they hook up well, they can pretty much be torn right out of the vehicle.
I had an '86 XJ6 with a SBC 350.
BTW: my buddy who bought it is finally selling the body/chassis. It's in the Dallas area. If somebody wants it, PM me.
Last edited by The Horvaths; Nov 18, 2013 at 07:09 PM.
Reason: Typo
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