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The OP mentioned maybe running an amp. IMHO, once you swap the head unit and start adding amps (which is what I would do) you're better off just bypassing the factory wiring and running your own wires from the amps to the speakers. This way you don't have to deal with the factory parallel wiring mess.
This is going to sound obvious, but the reason Ford did this was to be cheap. They stuck a four channel head unit in the dash and ran six speakers off it. The only way to do that is to run the back four in parallel with 8 ohm speakers so the head unit only sees a 4 ohm load. If you're going to all the trouble to improve sound quality and change out the head unit, why stick with the 8 ohm requirement?
Here is what I have in mine. No modifications or adapters necessary.
Sony XAV-72BT (serial number 1507537) from ebay ($375), Remote RM-X170
Leviathan Holdings 170 deg, CCD Rear View Camera from ebay ($99)
Kicker PH12 12” powered sub with enclosure, no serial number, from Best Buy ($250)
Kenwood 6x8 (6) KFC-C6893PS from ebay ($150)
These prices were what I paid for them at the time.
X2 what wrxin said. If u doing a 4 ch than I would run new wires back and up the gauge too. And there isn't many aftermarket hu that can hook up 6 sep speakers so if u do the swap I would do a amp at the same time to get a more sq set up
Thanks again everyone. When i had my Explorer i did run dedicated speaker wire to the new speakers. The factory wiring is marginal for the factory stuff.
So here's my thinking. 4 speakers in the doors run off the headunit with dedicated wiring. 2 speakers in the rear quarters run off my 4 channel amp and a single sub bridged off the other channel. Want to keep everything clean and factory looking so i want to keep the speakers behind the panels with the exception of the sub, unless i decide to put it in the rear door!
I've replaced all 6 speakers in my Ex and can tell you that the 4 rears are wired in Series/Parallel (a combination of both). This allows the same 4ohm speakers to be used throughout the truck and not put any more additional load on the head unit. You can replace the stock head unit with any 4ohm stable head unit and you'll be fine. You can also safely replace all 6 speakers with 4ohm speakers and you'll be fine (while retaining stock head unit).
Personally my setup is this and it sounds great:
Sony WX-GT90BT head unit
Nexus 7 Tablet
Alpine SPS-610c components in front doors (tweeters installed in sail panels)
Alpine KTP-445U amp power the components (mounted behind HU in dash)
4 x Pioneer TS-A6558R 4 way coaxial in rear doors and 3rd row
Sony XSGTX121LS 12" Sub
Kenwood KAC-5001PS mono amp powering the sub.
Just checked the stock speakers that came out of my truck. All are 25watts 4ohm.
Still though they are in parallel in the back. You can see the split point in the rear entertainment circuit board. Ford is going to use the same speaker in every spot to save on cost but it won't hurt anything but quality of sound a little at those low wattages. I have all 4ohm speakers and it works but if I had known better I would have gone the right route.
Just checked the stock speakers that came out of my truck. All are 25watts 4ohm.
Still though they are in parallel in the back. You can see the split point in the rear entertainment circuit board. Ford is going to use the same speaker in every spot to save on cost but it won't hurt anything but quality of sound a little at those low wattages. I have all 4ohm speakers and it works but if I had known better I would have gone the right route.
While I could be wrong - why would ford take the risk of running those back 4 at 2ohms (parallel) instead of 8ohms (series)?
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