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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Engine mounted Fuel Filter Kaput

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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #16  
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Be thankful your guys' kits are only 80 bux. My filter kit is roughly 100 bux for my truck. And it's a blessing if you can actually find the chassis mounted filter since it's an all-new system for my truck. Sorry to hear about fuel getting spread all over the place. Thankfully you had the good fortune to actually let your truck idle and catch the actual issue in action.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #17  
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Thanks Jus2shy. Actually, our filters are available for about $55.00 on Amazon. I wanted it "right now" so I paid $80.000 at my local parts house. Have you searched the internet for yours?
I got her all back together and running. I just wonder how much fuel is still on the engine and tranny and gonna stink up my garage.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Joe/GA
Thanks Jus2shy. Actually, our filters are available for about $55.00 on Amazon. I wanted it "right now" so I paid $80.000 at my local parts house. Have you searched the internet for yours?
I got her all back together and running. I just wonder how much fuel is still on the engine and tranny and gonna stink up my garage.
Yeah, my quote is internet price. The engine filter is roughly 40 bucks and the chassis filter is about 60 bucks. Give or take 5 bucks on each filter. Dealership wants 90 bucks for the chassis filter alone, so there's now way I'm going through my dealership for that. I really wish there was a nice kit for my vehicle, that's one thing I like that Motorcraft did for Ford's diesels .
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 03:58 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by marchare011
Thanks for the heads-up. Glad you caught the problem before it got worse.

I guess the thing I don't get tho is; what is wrong with using a power washer type under the hood? I know you're not supposed to drown the electronics and such, but I've been washing under the hood every time I go to Buggy Bath. I have done this with every vehicle I owned for years. The only issue I have is with my 1990 Festiva work car. If you spray too much I have to take off the dist. cap and wipe it out. I don't know, maybe I'm missing something here, but I wash my engine compartment at least a couple times a year.
At the wand washes I go to, the 'engine cleaning' mode is a reduced pressure spray with degreaser solution mixed in. Really, the engine bay naturally gets pressure washed when you're driving in a rain storm (that's probably how it got dirty in the first place) and vehicle designers have already taken that into account; the electronics are suitably sealed, connections are rubber and gel filled, the control modules are epoxy potted and/or have gaskets around the enclosure.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 03:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TRENT310
At the wand washes I go to, the 'engine cleaning' mode is a reduced pressure spray with degreaser solution mixed in. Really, the engine bay naturally gets pressure washed when you're driving in a rain storm (that's probably how it got dirty in the first place) and vehicle designers have already taken that into account; the electronics are suitably sealed, connections are rubber and gel filled, the control modules are epoxy potted and/or have gaskets around the enclosure.
Thanks Trent. I agree. I guess I just don't understand why so many folks are reluctant to spray clean an engine compartment. Like I said before, I've been doing it ever since I been driving and thats been, holy crap, 42 years? WOW! I must be getting old.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by marchare011
Thanks Trent. I agree. I guess I just don't understand why so many folks are reluctant to spray clean an engine compartment. Like I said before, I've been doing it ever since I been driving and thats been, holy crap, 42 years? WOW! I must be getting old.
last time i washed under the hood, i got a check engine light. Was easily resettable, and hasn't come back. I don't recall the exact code but was along the lines of a sensor shorted out - I'm assuming because the connector was wet.

Wash was done on a cold engine with only a garden hose sprayer, then drove it to get hot and dry things out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by djousma
last time i washed under the hood, i got a check engine light. Was easily resettable, and hasn't come back. I don't recall the exact code but was along the lines of a sensor shorted out - I'm assuming because the connector was wet.

Wash was done on a cold engine with only a garden hose sprayer, then drove it to get hot and dry things out.
That's what I do with my work car too. Once in awhile I get it a little too wet.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #23  
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Page 18 of my 2012 Diesel Supplement manual has engine cleaning procedures:
ENGINE
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
buildup keep the engine warmer than normal. When washing:
• Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine. The
high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause
damage.
• Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the
engine block or other engine components.
• Spray Motorcraft® Engine Shampoo and Degreaser (ZC-20) on all
parts that require cleaning and pressure rinse clean.
• Never wash or rinse the engine while it is running; water in the
running engine may cause internal damage.
• Cover the highlighted areas to prevent water damage when cleaning
the engine.

You will need to look at your own manual to see the graphic. Basically, you need to cover (protect) the two batteries, the air cleaner and air flow sensor and the fuse box.
---

2012 F-350 Lariat CC LB SRW FX4 6.7L
1986 F-150 XL (Donated to my high school)
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #24  
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From: Berryville, AR
Originally Posted by F stock owner
Page 18 of my 2012 Diesel Supplement manual has engine cleaning procedures:
ENGINE
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
buildup keep the engine warmer than normal. When washing:
• Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine. The
high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause
damage.
• Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the
engine block or other engine components.
• Spray Motorcraft® Engine Shampoo and Degreaser (ZC-20) on all
parts that require cleaning and pressure rinse clean.
• Never wash or rinse the engine while it is running; water in the
running engine may cause internal damage.
• Cover the highlighted areas to prevent water damage when cleaning
the engine.

You will need to look at your own manual to see the graphic. Basically, you need to cover (protect) the two batteries, the air cleaner and air flow sensor and the fuse box.
---

2012 F-350 Lariat CC LB SRW FX4 6.7L
1986 F-150 XL (Donated to my high school)

Hmmm...I should read the book, huh? Thanks!
 
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