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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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throwin codes

I started my truck yesterday, well tried. It hadnt run for a few days since i was on vacation. I tried to start it and it would turn over and try but just die. I did it a few times then finally had to jump it. It took a while and some weak batteries but it finally started. It wasnt very cold outside but kinda of chilly. it finally started and i let it run for 45 mins and then put the batteries on the charger. I had some yellow top optimas.

I put 2 brand new batteries.
I put a new FICM relay
My ficm voltage is start 48v, cranking 48, and running 47-48
Battery running voltage is 13.8 volts
I checked grounds and checked cables.
checked ficm fuses.

I replaced batteries , took a a day for the check engine light to come on.
Changed relay and check engine came back on an hr later
Took truck to autozone and they checked alternator and batteries. they said good.

I dont know why i am getting low cylinder voltage on all cylinders.

Is there a way the ficm could be bad, even though all voltages are good?

Ive been searching and trying. I would appreciate any input.


this is for a 06 f250 6.0l with 104k
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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How bad were the batterys you replaced? They could have already done the damage to the ficm.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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on your gauge check FICM logic and vehicle power, with the low batts its possible to fry the FTCM. is the connections tight no broke clips?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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The batteries were old and mismatched but they are still good. I checked them at auto zone and are now fully charged.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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The connections seemed fine. The truck runs. With the exception of the not starting once, I have used it non stop. Starts and stops fine. I checked all voltages.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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But its still throwing the same code? check FICM LP and VP even though the main is at 47/48 the other side maybe failing or even a solder could be bad ,Eds ficms would take care of that .
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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That's what I'm wondering should I pull out the ficm and re solder or order a new one? Even though I checked the voltages can the ficm still be going bad?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by acidbzero
That's what I'm wondering should I pull out the ficm and re solder or order a new one? Even though I checked the voltages can the ficm still be going bad?
If you know what to look for , I send mine to eds ficm he does a exchange program for you cant beat his price and you know what your getting, there is a test in the tech folders on other tests with out the gauge but when my ScanGauge tells me that's when I bust a move to get things repaired.What was FICM LP and VP ?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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The lp was 12.5 and the vp was 13.6.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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do you see this number at low idle and at 2500 rpm you have to run the full test to see the values , Trying to help you out
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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The lp was left at idle. The higher voltage was taken at idle and it was 13.6,then I think when I accelerated it peaked at 13.8.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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Heres some normal values to look at when you have a chance
FICM LP-koeo12.0 lo-13.5 hi-13.5
FICM VP- koeo-12.0 lo-14.0 hi-14.0
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Thats essentially what i got. The only thing i didnt do was keep it at 2500 i did it a lil higher. So lets say theoretically, if it passed this what else could i look at?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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post ICP ,ICPV,IPR in park koeo, low, high at 2500 rpm
Is there a tune on the truck that you know of?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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Ok those im all lost on. No tune. Would it be a safe bet to replace ficm or should I keep testing?
 
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